EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helped him send a 20+ move roof boulder, how to optimize your power endurance for a sport climbing trip, and much more. Buckle up for a good old-fashioned training chat.

The Nugget Training App (14-Day Free Trial) 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.com

FREE Finger Training PDF 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds

The NUG 👉 https://frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joel-unema

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:00) – Hurricave

(00:04:37) – Dirtbike crash

(00:07:22) – Balance vs. compromise

(00:12:30) – The bigger picture

(00:16:22) – Joel’s breakthrough season

(00:22:43) – Finger Training with Tyler Nelson

(00:37:20) – Roof Training with Steve Bechtel

(00:46:51) – Ice cube moments

(00:58:58) – Hi-Low

(01:05:53) – Training for a sport climbing trip

(01:11:54) – Pacing & metabolic specificity

(01:15:45) – Training for a sport climbing trip continued

(01:18:10) – Riding the rollercoaster

(01:26:18) – Floor & ceiling

(01:35:55) – Achievement to experience

(01:39:00) – Strength training

(01:45:39) – My Hueco goals

(01:49:03) – Joel’s goals

(01:52:13) – The Teacup

(01:56:03) – Wrap up

Episoder(387)

EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects

EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects

Kerwin Loukusa lives in Leavenworth, WA, and sent his first V12 and V13 last year while juggling a full-time job, wife, and two young kids. We talked about how he improved his flexibility to send the ...

1 Sep 20253h 53min

Something Different | Robb Wolf — Vitamin D, Zone 2 Cardio Hacks, Strength & Conditioning Timing, & Never Giving Up On Your Health

Something Different | Robb Wolf — Vitamin D, Zone 2 Cardio Hacks, Strength & Conditioning Timing, & Never Giving Up On Your Health

Robb Wolf is a 2x NYT Best-Selling Author (The Paleo Solution, Wired to Eat) and a leading voice in health, fitness, and nutrition. In this short segment, we cover the benefits of Vitamin D and Zone 2...

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EP 281: Eryn Phelps — Healing Anxiety & Trauma, Navigating Time Scarcity, & Getting Clear on What You Want

EP 281: Eryn Phelps — Healing Anxiety & Trauma, Navigating Time Scarcity, & Getting Clear on What You Want

Eryn Phelps is a licensed trauma counselor who specializes in helping outdoor athletes with anxiety, OCD, and PTSD. We talked about how EMDR helped cancer survivor and podcast guest Sol Wertkin, how t...

18 Aug 20252h 39min

Follow-Up: Alex Bridgewater — 3 Sports Psychology Skills That Will Transform Your Climbing

Follow-Up: Alex Bridgewater — 3 Sports Psychology Skills That Will Transform Your Climbing

Alex Bridgewater (M.S. in Sports Psychology) is back again to share three new sports psychology skills that have the potential to change your climbing forever. We covered how to practice these skills ...

11 Aug 202530min

EP 280: Stevie Hochbaum — Sending Germany’s First V16, The Toll of Obsessive Projecting, and Transformation Through Climbing

EP 280: Stevie Hochbaum — Sending Germany’s First V16, The Toll of Obsessive Projecting, and Transformation Through Climbing

Stevie Hochbaum is an elite boulderer who established the first V16, Obsidian, in Germany. We talked about nearly losing his finger to an infection, how he became obsessed with the project, what it fe...

4 Aug 20252h 3min

Something Different | Can Soil Save the World? Climate, Health, and Big Ag with Rebecca Tickell (Filmmaker, Kiss the Ground)

Something Different | Can Soil Save the World? Climate, Health, and Big Ag with Rebecca Tickell (Filmmaker, Kiss the Ground)

Rebecca Tickell is an award-winning filmmaker, author, environmental activist, and regenerative farmer. We talked about the journey that led to her films Kiss the Ground and Common Ground, the history...

28 Jul 20251h 47min

EP 279: Andy Raether — Bringing Routes to Life, How to Be Stronger at 40 than 20, & the Woods Board

EP 279: Andy Raether — Bringing Routes to Life, How to Be Stronger at 40 than 20, & the Woods Board

Andy Raether is a prolific sport climber, boulderer, and developer based in Las Vegas, NV. He also owns a climbing hold company and created the Woods Board. We talked about his intro to climbing and m...

21 Jul 20253h 11min

EP 278: Jeremy Kiner (Patron Spotlight) — The GRINDS Program, Embracing Double Rest Days, & Regenerative Farming

EP 278: Jeremy Kiner (Patron Spotlight) — The GRINDS Program, Embracing Double Rest Days, & Regenerative Farming

Jeremy Kiner is a Kentucky-based boulderer and sport climber. We talked about his journey to V10 and 5.13b, how he uses a board circuit as a training benchmark, his experience with the GRINDS finger t...

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