EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends

EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends

It’s another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoked for this unhinged six-person podcast. The lads gave us the tick list from their first ten days in Rocklands, and we geeked out about board training, favorite FAs, and ultimate dream boulders and routes. Tune in for a dose of fun and inspiration with these young crushers!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-adam-noah-benn

Nuggets:

0:04:26 – Izzo’s legendary ascent of Eternia in Upper Chaos, and debating whether V12 or 1200 in chess is harder

0:09:15 – Youth worlds and these boys trips outdoors

0:14:47 – Charlie’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)

0:19:06 – Adam’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)

0:26:21 – The boys' skin

0:29:22 – Noah’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)

0:34:01 – Ben’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)

0:37:20 – Charlie’s coach role on the trip

0:38:21 – Remaining Rocklands goals, and goals back home

0:40:46 – Noah’s first weekend of outdoor bouldering, and Benn’s worn-out Nikes

0:42:56 – Getting hooked

0:51:47 – Home crags in the Northeast

0:55:16 – V17 monsters, and futuristic projects

0:57:11 – College plans, and projects in the South Platte

0:58:41 – Brother dynamics

1:00:45 – Sponsorships in climbing vs other sports

1:02:38 – Is there V17 potential in the Northeast?

1:04:06 – Plans to try established V16s

1:09:23 – Boulders the boys struggled with, and Charlie’s big win on Mooiste Meisei

1:16:37 – Favorite boulders in Rocklands, Troy’s send of Black Shadow, and plans to return for Livin’ Large and The Finnish Line

1:21:09 – How the Wheeler boys are different, and Benn’s World Cup aspirations

1:24:24 – Noah’s finger strength

1:26:16 – Board gods

1:34:33 – Board grades vs. Rocklands grades

1:37:38 – Noah’s experience of gaining finger strength and risking injury on the Moonboard

1:38:51 – Using the hangboard for rehab and testing

1:40:17 – Nationals, and comp specialists

1:42:04 – Is board climbing the key to climbing hard on rock?

1:42:43 – Adam’s weaknesses

1:43:26 – Noah’s weaknesses

1:46:52 – Winning with your strengths and not losing because of your weaknesses

1:49:37 – Benn’s weaknesses

1:52:37 – Adam’s proudest FAs

1:54:14 – Noah’s proudest FAs

1:56:03 – Another proud FA from Adam

1:57:34 – Benn’s proudest FAs

1:59:23 – Charlie’s proudest FAs

2:01:36 – Ethan’s FA of Wet Dream when he was 17

2:06:29 – Ethan’s proudest highball FA, and other highballs in Bishop

2:08:13 – Ethan’s big wall FA in Greenland in 2012

2:09:33 – My FA of Pale Horse

2:10:49 – Ultimate dream boulders (and routes)

2:18:05 – Sport climbing aspirations

2:19:24 – Three more goals each

2:24:07 – Airstar

2:26:05 – Ethan and I share our three goals for our remaining time in Rocklands

2:32:16 – These boys are the future

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Episoder(393)

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

Adam Ondra is back on the podcast to discuss his incredible winter bouldering season, including four V15 (8C) flashes. We talked about why the best sport climbers can keep up with the bouldering speci...

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EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

Aaron Shamy has an inspiring story: he won the X Games in the ‘90s, took a 15-year hiatus from climbing, got out of shape, and then began a 6+ year comeback that culminated in sending the hardest rout...

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EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

Matt Samet is the former editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a writer and author, and a sport-climbing pioneer. We talked about his decade-plus battle with benzo addiction, his advice for people who...

8 Jun 2h 10min

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditati...

25 Mai 1h 1min

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how hi...

14 Mai 2h 9min

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him a...

27 Apr 2h 7min

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, ...

14 Apr 54min

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

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7 Apr 1h 46min

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