EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle) — Rocklands Wrap-Up, Bat Hang Shenanigans, and Challenging Your Perceived Limits

The final episode from Rocklands! Ethan Pringle joins me for a fireside chat on my last day in South Africa. We share a wrap-up of the trip, and tackle Patron questions about Ethan’s back injury and rehab, his favorite climbing areas in California, why I still do “No Hangs”, my send of Octopussy, projecting tips, how I use the Tindeq, Ethan’s most epic bat hangs, mental health struggles and setbacks, challenging your perceived limits, why Ethan thinks I should spend more time training on commercial gym sets, my thoughts about Rocklands overall, and much more!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-7

Nuggets:

0:03:51 – Rocklands Recap:

0:03:51 – My recap of being sick, and how fast time flies on a trip

0:11:55 – Comparing my trips to Magic Wood and Rocklands, and my main takeaway

0:13:07 – Ethan’s trip recap, and remaining goals

0:18:22 – Recap of my journey on Black Shadow

0:22:32 – Some of the other hard boulders I tried

0:24:06 – The line between having a “bad” vs “good” trip

0:25:29 – Expectations vs. reality, and resetting your reference points to find gratitude

0:28:02 – Patron Questions:

0:28:02 – Shawn’s Question: Ethan’s back injury/rehab, his plans to lift weights, and the rigors of bouldering in Rocklands

0:34:04 – Shawn’s Question: No Hangs, finding your max load for training, and my current approach to finger strength

0:38:40 – Rajiv’s Question: Top routes that have inspired Ethan, Connor Herson’s repeat of Black Beard’s Tears, and Ethan’s FA in Greenland

0:41:47 – Rajiv’s Question: China Beach in Rumney

0:43:05 – Rajiv’s Question: Chris Linder’s route Window of Opportunity

0:47:59 – Travis’ Question: My send of Octopussy, the process, and projecting tips

0:56:40 – Colin’s Question: Where Ethan developed his love for climbing, being a gym rat at heart, and his early climbing in CA

1:00:10 – Colin’s Question: Go-to climbing areas near San Francisco, Ethan’s thoughts on Jailhouse, and areas in northern CA

1:03:42 – Colin’s Question: Bouldering exploration in the Eastern Sierras, and unfinished business at Shuteye Ridge

1:09:58 – Colin’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on the bouldering near LA

1:13:11 – Cody’s Question: Tindeq protocols, edge sizes, and some notes about my finger training on the trip

1:19:40 – Patreon plug, and info about Q&As

1:21:26 – Daniel’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on bat hangs

1:28:02 – Alan’s Question: Which climber’s superpowers we wish we had

1:31:44 – Jacob’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on mental health struggles, and how that plays into his climbing

1:35:28 – Why loving yourself won’t make you lose your edge

1:39:02 – Wren’s Question: My thoughts on sport climbing in the future, and meeting climbing partners on the road

1:44:20 – Jacob’s Question: Favorite sport climbing destinations in the US

1:46:25 – Unpacking the word “favorite”

1:47:15 – Lars’ Question: Dealing with setbacks and mental struggles

1:49:33 – The beauty of Rocklands

1:51:07 – Connor’s Question: Most memorable boulders, and life list boulders

1:57:03 – Cooper’s Question: Favorite home crags near the Bay that Ethan never gets tired of, and remaining highballs in Bishop

1:59:13 – Luke’s Question: Challenging your perceived limits

2:09:08 – More Thoughts About Rocklands:

2:09:08 – Why Ethan thinks I should spend more time on commercial gym sets

2:10:40 – My thoughts on the climbing in Rocklands, and why I was hesitant to talk about it

2:19:28 – Sweet spot grades in different areas, and wanting to be good enough to enjoy weird or unpleasant climbs

2:22:59 – We need that 18-year-old Moonboard energy

2:24:32 – Wanting to come back, and wrap up