​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym, the importance of respecting your body, and much more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tony-yaniro

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:49) – Tony’s early climbing

(00:11:01) – Sticky rubber & homemade cams

(00:15:32) – 5 steps ahead

(00:21:12) – Hangdogging & The Grand Illusion (world’s first 5.13b)

(00:26:45) – Snowbird, backlash, & soloers

(00:30:08) – The Needles

(00:37:40) – Training for Scarface with tin foil

(00:40:58) – Pull-ups & Jim Collins

(00:45:57) – Quitting climbing the second time

(00:49:59) – The Winnebago

(00:52:50) – Making climbing holds

(00:57:07) – Leslie Gulch

(01:05:11) – City of Rocks

(01:10:24) – Drawing the line

(01:16:12) – Old school bolting

(01:24:40) – Riggins

(01:28:08) – Hideous Thing

(01:30:32) – Tony’s career & weekend climbing

(01:36:29) – Building a climbing gym

(01:41:41) – Tony’s climbing these days

(01:43:13) – Listen to your body

(01:46:17) – Respect your body

(01:47:50) – What excites Tony

Episoder(387)

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EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber

Tyson Schoene has been the head coach of the Vertical World Climbing Team in Seattle, WA for nearly 20 years, and has shaped some of the best climbers in the world including Drew Ruana, Sean Bailey, a...

3 Aug 20202h 23min

EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities

EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities

Blake Cason is a mindfulness and work/life balance coach, and the founder of Pivot Wellness. We talked about bringing awareness to our relationship with climbing, practicing radical honesty, ways of s...

27 Jul 20201h 46min

EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong

EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong

Audrey Sniezek is a software engineer for Microsoft and a former professional climber. We talked about her beginnings in both computer science and climbing, becoming a morning person, her 4 a.m. warmu...

20 Jul 20201h 50min

EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion

EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion

Ben Herrington is a professional route setter and likely Washington’s most prolific boulderer. We talked about why Ben performs best as a “weekend warrior”, his three go-to training sessions, mistakes...

13 Jul 20201h 41min

EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index

EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index

Nathan Hadley is a professional route setter and an all-around rock climber. We talked about completing the Canadian Alpine Trilogy, the benefits of training using bouldering circuits, how to practice...

6 Jul 20201h 24min

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

Paige Claassen is a professional rock climber and the founder of the Southern Africa Education Fund. We talked about pre-send rituals, breathing techniques, how she changed her diet to improve recover...

29 Jun 20201h 4min

EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

Jasna Hodžić is part writer, part scientific researcher, and part badass rock climber. We talked about sending her first 5.14a, ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’ at Smith Rock, about practicing her anti-style to...

22 Jun 20202h 20min

EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity

EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity

Justin Brown is the founder of Rhino Skin Solutions, a company that provides high-performance skincare products for rock climbers. We talked about best practices for skincare, tips for dialing skin fo...

15 Jun 20201h 55min

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