EP 33: Mike Kerzhner — El Cap’s ‘PreMuir’, Emigrating from Russia, and Discipline vs. Necessity

Mike Kerzhner is a software engineer, an accomplished Yosemite climber, and an impressive all-rounder. We talked about growing up climbing and competing in Russia, moving to the States and climbing at the Red River Gorge, his path to trad and big wall climbing, free climbing El Cap, writing, poetry, speaking Russian, and discipline born out of necessity.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mike-kerzhner

Nuggets:

2:05 – Savory oats

3:33 – “Eat, then sleep, then climb.”

4:05 – Big wall food, water weight, and radishes

6:13 – PerMuir, corners, and send cookies

9:04 – Excerpt from Mike’s writeup on the PreMuir, and writing

10:59 – Mike’s internal conflict with social media and sharing about experiences

12:20 – Patron Question: How does Mike contrast computer-heavy career choices with a lack of digital presence?

13:45 – Early climbing and competing in Russia

20:37 – Moving to the states, the EBS competition scene, reckless biking, and getting beat by his younger brother

24:26 – Transitioning from a gym kid to a Red/New River Gorge kid

28:36 – Traveling out West from the Red

29:44 – Why Mike switched from La Sportiva to Scarpa, and getting his shoe-game dialed

33:16 – Going to Stanford, taking a year off of climbing (to drink beer), trad climbing, and ripping a pitch on ‘Romantic Warrior’

39:39 – Climbing ‘Astroman’ with Chicken Pox, getting benighted, and descending in broken flip flops

41:07 – Jailhouse, balancing climbing with drinking, and getting psyched in Bishop

43:10 – Mike’s transition back to trad climbing

46:47 – Mike’s climbing philosophy

48:26 – ‘The Rostrum’, offwidths, and the ‘Freerider’

54:08 – Two-day ascents, ‘Golden Gate’, and making it happen with work constraints

56:14 – Try-hard mode, and screaming

59:41 – Stemming corners, and why Mike struggle with the “medium” 5.12 and 5.13- climbing on big walls

1:03:07 – PreMuir excerpt #2, and what Mike learned from Sam about skill and analysis

1:08:28 – The professional mindset, and learning more by getting on harder climbs

1:09:30 – Mike’s pet peeve, and aspirations

1:10:30 – Chaos and anxiety

1:12:42 – Discipline vs. necessity

1:17:27 – How Mike feels at age 33 (and a half)

1:18:41 – Mike’s experience with the Lattice Training Assessment, 12c finger strength, and climbing V13

1:23:37 – What climbing is for Mike, and why he sucks at training

1:24:43 – Patron Question: The Red vs. the New?

1:25:26 – Summersville dam

1:27:21 – The New

1:27:52 – Patron Question: Favorite sector at the Red? The New?

1:28:55 – Patron Question: Climbing heroes?

1:29:59 – Poems

1:31:14 – Lunch (in Russian), baking bread, and speaking Russian

1:33:52 – The man with no arms, growing up in a starved Russia, and a lot to be grateful for

1:35:27 – The Salathe Headwall, Just Do It, and hanging up the boots

1:38:44 – Plans with Nathan Hadley, route development, learning from others, and surviving ‘Vanishing Point’

1:41:42 – PreMuir excerpt #3