EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge

EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge

This is part 2 of my conversation with Alex Johnson. We talked about how she improved from 12b to 14a in her sport climbing, why she no longer does weighted pull-ups, isometric training for arm strength, a typical strength training session, performance vs. training vs. practice, and about Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock-Off Challenge.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-2

Athletic Brewing:

Promo Code: “NUGGET25” for 25% off all orders for new customers

Shop Athletic Brewing Beer

Nuggets:

1:54 – Leveling up from 12b to 14a

5:11 – Testing with Dr. Tyler Nelson, fast hands, and pinpointing weaknesses (finger and arm strength)

12:52 – How Alex trained arm strength, and why weighted pull-ups are “moot”

16:27 – Breakdown of AJ’s isometric arm strength session

20:26 – AJ’s typical strength session layout (bouldering, arm strength, finger strength)

21:43 – Breakdown of AJ’s finger strength session

25:05 – “Snatches” on a campus board for contact strength

28:48 – Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock Off Challenge

33:00 – Sending ‘The Muffler’ V12, and plans to go back to ‘The Swarm’

34:30 – Highballs

37:28 – AJ’s parting thoughts for her team kids, and “never be afraid to stand up for what you believe in”

42:07 – Outro

Episoder(387)

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EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

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Facundo Langbehn is a Chilean-American boulderer and sport climber. We talked about sending his dream project The Nest V15, moving to Seattle, the WHY behind hard climbing, becoming the best version o...

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EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

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EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

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EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

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15 Apr 20252h 39min

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

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EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

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Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climb...

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