EP 62: Q&A 1 — How We Get Strong, Dealing with Injuries, and Patterns Among High Performers

EP 62: Q&A 1 — How We Get Strong, Dealing with Injuries, and Patterns Among High Performers

In this Q&A, I tackle some of my patron’s most burning questions about how we getting stronger, takeaways from my experiments with nutrition and intermittent fasting, dealing with injuries, favorite training playlists and climbing books, life on the road, patterns I’ve noticed among high performers, dream guests, recommendations for first-time trainers, and much more.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Learn more about Q&As:

thenuggetclimbing.com/bonus-content

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-1

Nuggets:

00:00 – Q&A introduction, Patreon tiers, and format

06:53 – Nico’s Question: Tactics for mini-projects/quick ticks?

12:47 – Tony’s Question: Least favorite climbing shoe?

14:15 – Tony’s Question: If you could do an episode with one deceased person, who would it be?

14:49 – Tony’s Question: Favorite climbing-related book?

15:50 – Tony’s Question: Worst climbing bodily function story?

17:00 – Emma’s Question: How does training work, and what is happening in our body when we get stronger?

27:16 – Emma’s Question: Recommendations for training with a knee injury?

30:34 – Emma’s Question: Should I train my good leg while my other leg is injured?

31:44 – Katie’s Question: What inspires you the most aside from climbing?

33:34 – Adrian’s Question: Why did you stop intermittent fasting?

35:39 – Ted’s Question: Will carbs help me get stronger faster coming from a keto diet? And what changes have you made to your diet that have made a difference?

41:16 – Jasna’s Question: How do you mentally deal with injuries? How do you redirect your psych when dealing with a climbing injury?

50:35 – Darren’s Question: When are you going to tell us about anorexic Steven? And was it worth it?

51:32 – Jimmy’s Question: 3-week or 5-week training cycles: have you tried both? Which do you prefer?

54:58 – Jimmy’s Question: Favorite training playlist?

56:07 – Adriel’s Question: Advice on working through mental blocks, like fear of falling?

1:00:23 – Adriel’s Question: How much can you train a month sustainably?

1:03:24 – Adriel’s Question: Tips for hard finger cracks? (5.11 and up)

1:06:07 – Heather’s Question: Advice for someone who is interesting in training for the first time?

1:12:57 – Heather’s Question: What have you learned about yourself living in the van? And is this lifestyle sustainable for you?

1:17:01 – Heather’s Questions: What are some of your biggest climbing takeaways? Where would you be without climbing, and what has made you the climber you are today?

1:22:01 – Casey’s Question: Do you train on the road? If so, how?

1:23:19 – Casey’s Question: How are you structuring your Hueco trip?

1:26:47 – Casey’s Question: Why does everyone say your van smells good even if they are vegan? Is it because everyone needs beef? (just kidding… kind of)

1:27:32 – Casey’s Question: Bouldering diet vs. sport climbing diet?

1:28:35 – Casey’s Question: Favorite other podcasts?

1:31:00 – Casey’s Question: Thoughts on flexibility?

1:32:21 – Casey’s Question: Thoughts on warming up?

1:34:20 – Casey’s Question: If you could press a button and go anywhere, where would you go each day of the week?

1:37:11 – Steve’s Question: What patterns have you seen emerge among the high performers you’ve interviewed?

1:40:04 – Steve’s Question: Living on the road full time, do you ever get sick of it and just want to settle somewhere for a year?

1:41:13 – Jeffrey’s Question: Top 3 dream guests to interview?

1:43:45 – Jeffrey’s Question: What’s the most common weakness you see among top climbers?

1:45:40 – Ilkka’s Question: What about the ethical side of eating meat?

1:49:08 – Wrap up

Episoder(384)

EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating

EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating

Dr. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be ...

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EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets

EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets

Jason Kehl is a professional rock climber known for his highball bouldering ascents, and unique artistic expression. We talked about karate and how screaming helps his climbing, roof climbing in his p...

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EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs

EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs

Allison Vest is a 3x Canadian National Champion in bouldering. We talked about her mindset after a recent competition, moving to SLC and training with her roommate Kyra Condie, goals and confidence, t...

12 Jul 20212h 2min

Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Shanjean Lee. We talked about her recent free ascent of ‘Freerider’ on El Cap in Yosemite, and had some ...

8 Jul 202112min

A Call from Ethan

A Call from Ethan

Ethan missed the Q&A and had a question he wanted to ask me. ⁠

7 Jul 202132min

EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling

EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling

In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podca...

5 Jul 20211h 11min

EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing T...

28 Jun 20211h 57min

Follow-Up: William Woodward — Sailing Stories, Vanlife Tips, and How to Wash Dishes (Teaser)

Follow-Up: William Woodward — Sailing Stories, Vanlife Tips, and How to Wash Dishes (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with William Woodward. We talked about William’s sailing trip to Hawaii, living at sea for a month, being pre...

24 Jun 202132min

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