EP 147: Alayna Joy — Coming out to 400k Subscribers, Queerness in Climbing, and Compulsory Heterosexuality

EP 147: Alayna Joy — Coming out to 400k Subscribers, Queerness in Climbing, and Compulsory Heterosexuality

Alayna Joy is a queer content creator and YouTuber, and newly obsessed climber. We talked about her journey of discovering she is gay, coming out publicly on her already-successful YouTube channel, how climbing has become an anchor for her, compulsory heterosexuality, questions we should ask ourselves, queerness in climbing, why our climbing progress slows down over time, and much more.

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Become a Patron:

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alayna-joy

Nuggets:

0:06:36 – Julio

0:09:27 – Places that feel like home

0:16:32 – Feeling like I already know Alayna from watching her channel, and parasocial relationships

0:19:37 – Sharing her story to make others feel less alone

0:21:39 – Starting her YouTube channel in high school, her first three videos, and hitting 800 subscribers

0:27:30 – Working as a server during university, and getting her first YouTube brand deal

0:31:38 – The phenomenon of being an introvert and a content creator

0:34:39 – Bisexuality, and the first time Alayna came out

0:37:54 – Being in a serious relationship with a man, and feeling disconnected from her queerness

0:42:54 – Coming out to her partner as gay, and talking herself out of it

0:46:25 – The constant little voice in her head convincing her she was happy

0:48:08 – “The big oopsie”

0:51:26 – Being afraid that she was playing into bisexual stereotypes by coming out as gay

0:54:41 – Compulsory heterosexuality (comp het), and why it took Alayna so long to realize she was gay

0:58:08 – Why Alayna thought she was demiromantic for most of her adult life

1:00:19 – Seeing the world through new eyes

1:05:16 – “I’m in therapy, and I’M TIRED!”

1:06:05 – Alayna pays me a very nice compliment, and I talk about drawing people in and hoping they learn something that goes beyond rock climbing

1:10:43 – I come out as not a lesbian, and Alayna asks everyone listening to ask themselves a question

1:12:54 – “Climbing is gay.”

1:18:36 – How climbing became an anchor for Alayna

1:21:17 – Working on her relationship with climbing

1:23:32 – Making quick progress as climbers early on, why our progress slows over time, and the magic of climbing

1:32:01 – The stories our brains tell us

1:34:36 – So Cards! (socards.org, use code NUGGET for 20% off)

1:36:29 – So Cards question 1: “If you never had to worry about money, what’s one goal that you would dedicate yourself to?”

1:40:00 – So Cards question 2: “When you were a kid, what scared you about growing up?”

1:46:05 – So Cards question 3: “What do you think people tend to take for granted in their relationships?”

1:53:14 – You’re not alone, and living your life as your most authentic self

1:56:00 – Patron question from Wren: How was your experience finding a queer community within the larger climbing community, and do you have any tips for queer climbers finding these spaces?

2:00:26 – Where to find Alayna on the internet

Episoder(387)

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EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts

Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finge...

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EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids

EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids

James Pearson is one of the world’s best trad climbers. We discussed a 15-year-old controversy that nearly ended his career, how meeting his wife Caroline saved him, climbing his first 9a after learni...

15 Jan 20243h 26min

EP 200: Brooke Raboutou —  An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends

EP 200: Brooke Raboutou — An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends

Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for comp...

8 Jan 20241h 54min

EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing

EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing

Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will ...

18 Des 20233h 1min

EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel

EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel

Travis Tameirao is a 33-year-old from Rhode Island. On August 13, 2018, his life changed in a freak accident in the climbing gym. Three years and a dozen surgeries later, Travis miraculously returned ...

11 Des 20232h 53min

EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect

EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect

Melina Costanza swept the US National Championships in October, making one hell of a comeback after her competition break. She returns to the podcast to talk about why Nationals was the hardest compet...

4 Des 20231h 40min

EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects

EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects

Pete Whittaker is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers of all time. We talked about his current trip to Moab trying Stranger Than Fiction, how he trained for the FA of Crown Royale 9a, th...

27 Nov 20231h 42min

EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades

EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades

Matt Segal is back on the podcast! Matt is one of the boldest trad climbers of his generation and just had his best climbing year ever at age 39. We talked about his new YouTube channel cooking show, ...

20 Nov 20231h 35min

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