
S2 E25: Women On Waves - Chapt 6: Hollywood Malibu Magic 1945–1958
Chapter 6 of Women on Waves: A Cultural History of Surfing from Ancient Goddesses and Hawaiian Queens to Malibu Movie Stars and Millennial Champions by Jim Kempton moves us into the early twentieth ce...
21 Mar 33min

S2 E24: Women On Waves (Preface & Chapt 1)
In honor of Women’s History Month, I’m diving into Jim Kempton’s incredible book, Women on Waves: A Cultural History of Surfing: From Ancient Goddesses and Hawaiian Queens to Malibu Movie Stars and Mi...
6 Mar 42min

S2 E23: Excerpts from Windansea: Life, Death, Resurrection by Chris Ahrens
Today’s episode is a heavy one, in the best way. We’re diving into Chris Ahren's latest book Windansea: Life, Death, Resurrection. I’ve been chomping at the bit to crack this book open since the day i...
23 Feb 43min

S2 E22: John Severson, Inventing Surf Culture by Drew Kampion
Today I’ll be reading from a book I recently picked up titled The Way of the Surfer: Living It, 1935 to Tomorrow by our friend Drew Kampion. The Way of the Surfer profiles thirteen incredible names fr...
2 Feb 20min

S2 E21: Masters of the Universe by Matt Warshaw
This episode we revisit Matt Warshaw’s book Surfriders: In Search of the Perfect Wave and read a story called “Masters of the Universe” In this story Warshaw takes us straight into the pressure cooker...
20 Jan 26min

S2 E20: Excerpts from 'Not Done Yet' by Corky Carroll
This episode we dig into chapters 1, 2 and 3 of Corky Carroll's autobiography Not Done Yet. From growing up in Southern California to chasing waves, contests, and a life shaped by the ocean, Corky’s e...
5 Jan 34min

S2 E19: Selected excerpts from Mr. Sunset: The Jeff Hakman Story, by Phil Jarratt
This episode we are excited to read selected excerpts (chapters 8 & 9) from Phil Jarratt's incredible book Mr. Sunset: The Jeff Hakman Story. Jeff Hakman was born in California in 1948, and by the age...
22 Des 202530min

S2 E18: Young, Loud and Shameless
This episode we are reading Jamie Brisick's short story Young, Loud and Shameless from the book: The Eighties at Echo Beach. It captures the wild, neon-soaked, punk-influenced surf scene of early ’80s...
8 Des 202523min




















