The Surfer’s Library

Billy Jack kicks off summer 2026 and season 2 of the podcast reading Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. This episode we...

20 Jun 202539min

Today Billy Jack reads The Last Wave by Greg Noll and Andrea Gabbard from the book The Big Drop edited by John Long. In 1969 Greg Noll took off on one of the biggest waves ever at Makaha and nearly di...

8 Jun 202523min

Today we wrap up part two in a supersized episode in which Billy reads the second half of Chapter 3: Malibu Swing 1945 - late 1950s from Matt Warshaw's The History of Surfing. We pick up with Dewey We...

20 Mai 20252h 15min

Today in part one of a two part series Billy reads the first half of Chapter 3: Malibu Swing 1945 - late 1950s from Matt Warshaw's The History of Surfing. The History of Surfing is a comprehensive and...

5 Mai 20251h 4min

Today Billy continues reading from ​Francine Park Palama's book: The Last of the Golden Years in Surfing: Stories by Waterman Conrad Louis Canha. The book is a collection of stories by legendary surfe...

17 Apr 202532min

Today Billy reads from ​Francine Park Palama's book: The Last of the Golden Years in Surfing: Stories by Waterman Conrad Louis Canha. The book is a collection of stories by legendary surfer Conrad Lou...

7 Apr 202532min

This episode Billy reads The South Swell, the first chapter from the book Big Wednesday by Denny Aaberg and John Milius.

2 Apr 202513min

In this special episode we bid farewell to two surfing greats, Mike Hynson and Dale Dobson.

31 Mar 202517min