The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn’t train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more!Check out C4HP or Schedule an Appointment With Tyler!camp4humanperformance.comc4hpschedule.as.meBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!REGISTER NOW for the PCC!www.performanceclimbingcoach.comUse code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:03) – The donut festival(00:06:26) – Tyler’s granite spray wall(00:07:46) – Mirrored boards(00:13:06) – Alcohol and more donuts(00:14:21) – Outline of topics(00:16:17) – Finger training topics(00:34:46) – How Tyler warms up for limit bouldering(00:41:58) – Hand training, recruitment, and coordination(00:49:23) – Summary of our session(00:50:21) – When to end a session(00:52:48) – Using a mix of tools(00:54:26) – Intensity vs. volume(00:59:49) – Building capacity off the wall(01:01:39) – Supplementing your climbing with less risky hand/finger training tools(01:05:22) – When to hangboard (and when not to)(01:09:42) – Learning and changing your mind(01:11:25) – Tyler’s guidance for me in Hueco(01:17:25) – Should we climb less?(01:20:24) – Lions don’t go jogging(01:21:53) – Making sense of Alex Megos’ and Adam Ondra’s training volume(01:23:31) – My takeaways for Hueco(01:24:47) – What Tyler learned from his trip to Squamish(01:30:02) – What is the campus board good for?(01:40:14) – How important is RFD in climbing?(01:44:33) – Common causes of injuries(01:52:32) – Transitioning back to hard climbing(01:54:55) – How your tendons change when you build capacity(01:58:29) – Do our tendons get thicker?(02:00:24) – Where does our long-term finger strength come from?(02:02:57) – What sets the best athletes apart?(02:07:46) – Takeaways(02:11:48) – How Tyler changes his clients’ training habits(02:14:41) – The future of finger training(02:18:04) – Calisthenics vs. strength training(02:26:19) – Are rings exercises strength training?(02:30:12) – More strength training takeaways(02:37:05) – Wrap up

22 Jan 20242h 44min

James Pearson is one of the world’s best trad climbers. We discussed a 15-year-old controversy that nearly ended his career, how meeting his wife Caroline saved him, climbing his first 9a after learning how to train, eGrader and quantifying E grades, his decision to suggest E12 for his new route ‘Bon Voyage’, why he was afraid of becoming a dad, what kids taught him, and much more! This was one of my all-time favorite interviews.Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/james-pearsonNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – Getting settled(00:03:13) – Why I feel like I know James(00:05:33) – Introducing the Redemption Story(00:08:10) – Internet backlash(00:10:05) – Coming full circle(00:13:33) – Why it felt important to grade ‘Bon Voyage’(00:17:10) – The full story(00:28:47) – Compassion for himself(00:30:53) – Moving to Innsbruck to work on his sport climbing(00:36:05) – Thinking his pro climbing life was over, meeting Caroline, and their trip to Turkey(00:41:18) – Learning how to train(00:46:33) – 7b+ to 8c+ in 6 months(00:52:32) – Fun and performance(00:53:23) – E grades(00:56:16) – Trying to flash E10 in Pembrook, and falling in love with climbing again(00:59:43) – Returning to ‘Rhapsody’(01:02:10) – Flashing V13 (8B), and his struggle with projecting pressure(01:08:50) – Climbing V15, craving the next level, and living the pro climber dream with Caro(01:17:10) – Why he left the UK, and why it felt important to return to ‘Rhapsody’(01:24:53) – Searching for his hardest trad route(01:25:59) – Making the Redemption film(01:29:21) – eGrader, and understanding E12 and beyond(01:35:47) – Climbing a 9a right after ‘Bon Voyage’(01:37:15) – Talking to Hazel Findlay, and PTSD(01:38:58) – Presenting E12 again 15 years later(01:45:04) – Backlash about grades, and Anna Hazelnutt’s thoughts about Walk of Life(01:49:02) – Breaking down E12 and ‘Bon Voyage’(02:00:53) – Finding ‘Bon Voyage’(02:08:08) – How dangerous is ‘Bon Voyage’?(02:20:23) – Being more scientific about grades(02:24:54) – Why give ‘Bon Voyage’ an E grade?(02:38:44) – Becoming a dad(02:47:47) – What kids taught him(02:53:57) – Rules for climbing with kids, and sending without expectations(02:58:17) – Tips for climbers with kids(03:03:36) – James’ advice for his younger self(03:11:15) – Climbing matters(03:16:45) – Accepting some selfishness, and Caro’s mom(03:23:36) – Training with Ollie Torr for ‘Bon Voyage’, and Caro’s journey back to hard climbing after pregnancy

15 Jan 20243h 26min

Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing REGISTER NOW for the PCC!www.performanceclimbingcoach.comUse code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brooke-raboutouNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – The first podcast in my cabin, and Brooke’s two-a-day training(00:04:03) – Why college felt so important, and balancing climbing with other interests(00:07:45) – Studying marketing and psychology(00:10:38) – Climbing as a lifetime sport, and pivoting within climbing(00:14:05) – Brooke’s family and upbringing, and balancing college with Olympic training(00:21:34) – Her parents starting ABC climbing, and what it was like having her mom as a coach(00:24:42) – What felt better: winning her first World Cup gold medal, or sending Box Therapy?(00:27:55) – Training for the Olympics, and her hype music for speed climbing(00:32:20) – Brooke’s favorite music(00:37:20) – Wanting to win while supporting your friends and teammates(00:44:17) – The mechanics of qualifying for the Olympics, and Brooke’s mindset for Paris(00:50:09) – How much longer will Brooke focus on competitions?(00:51:20) – Working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, and focusing on the big picture(00:57:11) – The purpose we get from having a goal, and Brooke’s goal to mix psychology and climbing(01:01:41) – Brooke’s mindset approaching competitions(01:06:34) – Balancing fun and focus, different competitors' mindsets, and channeling good energy(01:10:15) – Meditation and breath(01:18:10) – Using her flexibility as a shorter climber, and growing up in gymnastics at CATS(01:23:52) – Dancing on the wall for her warmup(01:25:46) – How to use more flexibility in your climbing(01:26:45) – How did Brooke become so strong in 3F drag?(01:31:14) – Short pinkies and crooked fingers(01:31:53) – Working with her coach Chris Danielson(01:39:09) – Does Brooke train specifically for outdoor goals?(01:41:19) – How outdoor climbing feeds back into competitions(01:43:54) – More about Brooke’s training(01:46:06) – Why Brooke switched from one-arm hangs to weighted two-arm hangs, and using the hangboard for injury prevention(01:47:51) – Working on jumps and leg power, coordination, and mental game(01:49:08) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

8 Jan 20241h 54min

Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will and Matt provide clear and in-depth guidance for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers in this three-hour masterclass. If you feel stuck at a plateau or simply want to progress to the next level, don’t skip this episode!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget250Use code "nugget250" at checkout for $250 off!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-and-mattNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro/Ads(00:03:55) – Introducing to Matt Jones(00:06:43) – The goal of this episode, and who it’s for(00:09:20) – How we are defining beginner, intermediate, and advanced(00:12:37) – Reminder about timestamps(00:13:31) – Overview of core themes (skills and strength feedback loop, the four stages of competence, selecting training tools)(00:20:24) – My first plateau in climbing, and helping people identify and address what they’re missing--BEGINNER STARTS HERE--(00:23:45) – Beginner | Overview(00:23:45) – Gaining initial awareness, and meat suit competence(00:25:53) – Beginner | Strong Not Good(00:27:35) – The Hammer(00:28:51) – Not everything is a nail(00:30:00) – The hammeriest hammer Matt and Will have ever seen, and taking away the hammer(00:34:06) – Beginner | Good Not Strong(00:34:06) – The goal for the beginner climber overall is to diversify the toolset(00:34:47) – The Stringbean (aka The Crowbar)(00:36:18) – Overutilizing sneaky tricks, and adding constraints/rules to your climbing(00:41:48) – Interventions for beginners(00:46:35) – Identifying the low-hanging fruit(00:47:40) – Beginner | Summary(00:51:11) – Using climbing as a training intervention(00:53:41) – Checking your ego(00:55:27) – Building strength and skill at the same time through climbing --INTERMEDIATE STARTS HERE--(00:59:06) – Intermediate | Overview(00:59:06) – Exiting the beginner stage, and learning to quantify your progress beyond grades(01:01:42) – “Oh no, now what?!”(01:03:22) – The logarithmic aspect of climbing the grade scale, and the room for growth as a climber(01:05:24) – My experience of collecting more tools in sport climbing in the last 6 years(01:07:14) – Finding what trying hard means, and the Nationals training camp story(01:10:09) – Trying hard vs. trying well(01:12:10) – Identifying what you need to address in your climbing(01:13:30) – Understanding exactly what you’re doing, and why it is working or not working(01:17:54) – Intermediate | Strong Not Good(01:18:51) – Chunking(01:20:25) – Getting beyond the left-right-left, and increasing the resolution of your beta(01:22:47) – The guess and check model, and turning new dials(01:25:21) – The sloth monkey drill, and finding the line(01:27:50) – Hip in vs. square drill(01:29:43) – Building a process for problem-solving(01:30:16) – Guidance for off-the-wall training for the intermediate climber(01:33:38) – Keeping off-the-wall training in perspective, and becoming fluent in training(01:39:20) – A tactical pitfall for intermediate climbers(01:43:00) – Why you shouldn’t punt, the nuance of resting, and energy economy(01:48:20) – Separating practice, training, and performance(01:50:11) – Intermediate | Good Not Strong(01:50:11) – Getting the reps in, and eating your vegetables first(01:56:34) – Strength training to support your movement, and learning to reverse engineer moves(02:03:19) – Asking why, being more intentional, and why Chris Sharma led the intermediate climbers astray(02:04:33) – More on reverse engineering, amplifying your strength through mobility, and being in the correct position(02:07:12) – Learning how to guide yourself, and choosing how to train(02:10:31) – The optimal training plan doesn’t exist, and it’s ok to have fun--ADVANCED STARTS HERE--(02:16:25) – Advanced | Overview(02:18:41) – Specific goals, and going from dial-up to fiber optic(02:21:46) – Advanced | Strong Not Good & Good Not Strong(02:23:57) – Occupying the position(02:29:14) – Mobility and sensation(02:33:33) – Proprioception, feeling mode, and micro beta(02:37:57) – The Golfer study(02:41:00) – The opportunity of the intermediate climber, and Will’s beef with strength metrics(02:43:23) – Affordances, and becoming a better athlete(02:46:31) – Off-the-wall training for an advanced climber, and Usain Bolt(02:51:23) – Misusing tools from the pros(02:56:50) – Wrap up, and EXTRA teaser

18 Des 20233h 1min

Travis Tameirao is a 33-year-old from Rhode Island. On August 13, 2018, his life changed in a freak accident in the climbing gym. Three years and a dozen surgeries later, Travis miraculously returned to climbing and sent his first V10 and V11. We talked about his accident, getting a full knee replacement, how he made a full recovery, his incredible wife Katie, why he swims four times per week, treating yourself like you have the V17 gene, taking responsibility for your life, the interplay of luck and hard work, and much more.Support the Access Fund!accessfund.org/protectBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/travis-tameiraoNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:07:14 – Having a son at 19, semi-pro boxing and bartending to make ends meet, and getting into climbing0:13:31 – Maintaining his own identity once he became a dad0:15:40 – Getting obsessed with climbing, and being reckless out of ignorance0:24:51 – The full story of Travis’ accident on August 13th, 20180:35:20 – Getting his knee reconstructed in December 2019, and losing his Tibial Plateau0:38:31 – The possibility of amputation, and choosing an experimental procedure0:44:18 – Living in constant pain, surgery as a trauma, and holding onto hope0:47:21 – Having a full knee replacement, and feeling like he was given a death sentence0:49:52 – The limitations of Western medicine0:51:55 – Waking up without pain0:53:56 – The gift of walking, and reclaiming his life0:56:55 – Working on regaining his range of motion, and reconnecting with climbing1:05:05 – Getting hurt again sport climbing in Rumney1:09:39 – Losing friends and community during his recovery, and proposing to his wife Katie1:17:40 – The first time he asked Katie out1:20:57 – Gratitude for Katie, and being with a partner through the hard times1:23:41 – Hiking around Mont Blanc on their honeymoon1:26:39 – Focusing on work while he was recovering, and appreciation for the support1:27:40 – Regaining his full range of motion, and climbing his first V10 outside1:31:42 – Mr. Miyagi and the pistol squat1:33:04 – Climbing his first V11, leaving areas better than you found them, and finding boulders in Rhode Island1:36:22 – “Don’t get injured”, learning how to fall, and being unsure of the takeaway1:38:33 – The guy in the wheelchair, and wondering if he is blowing his second chance1:43:01 – Choosing to live a rich and passionate life, the fountain of youth, and facing mortality1:48:10 – A backlog of games and books, and wanting to live forever1:54:19 – Accepting support from Katie, hard conversations, and the transition in their relationship after his recovery2:03:08 – Mothers and empty nests, Travis’ parents relationship, and the feeling of firsts2:07:45 – What climbing means to Travis now, and why Travis swims 4 days per week2:10:46 – Long-term climbing goals, and sponsoring himself2:14:43 – Growing up a block away from his wife, and all of the things climbing has brought him2:17:24 – Treating yourself like you have the V17 gene2:19:15 – How Travis made a full recovery when many others didn’t, drawing inspiration from anime, and being the main character in your own story2:26:43 – Taking the wheel, and advocating for yourself2:32:14 – Sharing his story, and being a resource2:36:46 – Kind words about the podcast2:39:58 – Luck and hard work2:42:26 – More kind words2:45:32 – Iontophoresis2:47:01 – Wrap up and Travis’ phone number

11 Des 20232h 53min

Melina Costanza swept the US National Championships in October, making one hell of a comeback after her competition break. She returns to the podcast to talk about why Nationals was the hardest competition she has ever done, how to use nerves to focus and thrive, training for Nationals, praising effort, her fueling strategy, gaining weight to be more powerful, Alex Johnson’s hype shirt, balancing training with fueling and mental health, choosing good over perfect, upcoming goals, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melina-costanza-returnsNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:04:40 – Recovery from her foot surgery, and sweeping the National Championships in Boise Idaho0:07:05 – Trying a new approach with fueling and training0:08:17 – A message about Melina from Tyson Schoene0:09:55 – Why Nationals was the hardest competition Melina has ever done, and finding flow in the sport climbing final0:16:00 – Training primarily for bouldering, and proving to herself that she is a better climber than before0:21:39 – The limit is higher when you focus on getting stronger vs. lighter0:23:28 – The nerves and joy of competitions, and a weight lifted0:29:10 – Training for lead and bouldering at the same time, and her training phases before Nationals0:34:51 – How she won lead despite her lack of power endurance after getting covid, and the mental side of competition0:37:11 – Praising her effort more than her performance0:41:21 – Effort is trainable0:42:48 – How Melina’s fueling strategy has changed, eating more carbs on comp days, and Sour Patch Kids0:51:13 – Gaining weight to be more powerful0:54:06 – What Melina does when she has dark thoughts around eating, and how to know when you’re “overtraining”0:58:51 – Knowing when to take more rest vs. put your head down and do the work1:01:51 – Doing every part of your training for a reason1:06:30 – “You just have to go to win.”1:10:55 – Coming out last in finals, and pressure as a privilege1:13:46 – Alex Johnson’s shirt1:16:03 – Balancing training, fueling, and mental health, and choosing good over perfect1:19:01 – What Melina would tell others who struggle with eating disorders1:22:07 – The false promise of success, achieving your goals while being true to who you are, carrying guilt, and giving each other permission to be imperfect1:27:37 – Surrounding yourself with people who love you unconditionally1:29:55 – Melina’s goals1:33:11 – Melina’s thoughts on the Paris Olympics, and the 2028 Olympic games1:35:56 – Thanks to Melina for bringing us along on her journey1:37:16 – Check out this week’s Patreon bonus episode for more fun facts with Melina!

4 Des 20231h 40min

Pete Whittaker is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers of all time. We talked about his current trip to Moab trying Stranger Than Fiction, how he trained for the FA of Crown Royale 9a, the skills needed to climb cutting-edge cracks, why he is still working on improving at ring locks, the futuristic Crucifix Project, his most fun/rewarding/miserable/traumatic trips with Tom Randall, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetHoliday Sale going on now with up to 25% off!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/pete-whittakerNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:05:34 – Pete’s breakfast and voice0:06:29 – Pete and Tom’s current mission in Moab, and what makes that area so unique0:10:02 – Goals on trips, and working on ring locks as a weakness0:12:22 – How Pete and Tom ring lock differently0:14:57 – Pete’s book on crack climbing techniques0:15:56 – Trying Mason Earl’s route Stranger Than Fiction0:20:14 – Breakdown and progress on Stranger Than Fiction0:21:58 – Pete’s first visit to the Profile Wall in Norway to try Recovery Drink, and working his way through the established free routes0:27:54 – The style of climbing on the Profile Wall, and the skills needed to climb hard there0:30:08 – Placing 17 pieces of gear on the 100m Crown Royale 9a0:32:35 – Breakdown of Crown Royale 9a, and running it out on the send0:38:13 – Pete’s process on Crown, and projecting the top half as its own pitch0:40:42 – How Pete and Tom decide which projects to try together vs. individually0:43:19 – The most FUN trip with Tom (Century Crack trip)0:45:20 – The most MISERABLE trip with Tom (Bridge Boys)0:46:21 – The most TRAUMATIZING trip with Tom (Yosemite)0:49:09 – The most REWARDING trips with Tom (exploring the White Rim)0:50:27 – The Crucifix project0:53:26 – How Pete trained for Crown Royale 9a0:57:06 – Embracing the suck, why Pete is good at resting in stressful positions, and training stamina as a kid1:00:17 – Pete’s early climbing, venturing into more dangerous routes as a teenager, and doing the first ascent of an E9 at age 17 with his mom on belay1:06:12 – Why Pete loves offwidthing, and other styles of climbing that involve lots of suffering1:10:42 – How geeky is Pete about training?1:13:10 – Adding structure, and training with Lattice for Crown Royale1:14:51 – Shoulder conditioning for Crown, and what exercises he plans to continue doing1:17:51 – Keeping tabs on the world’s hardest trad routes, and Pete’s thoughts on trying Tribe1:20:09 – How Pete picks objectives and goals, and riding the waves1:23:07 – Pete’s recent trip to Yosemite with Mari1:25:37 – Using Darth Grader to suggest the grade of 9a for Crown Royale1:34:33 – How Pete’s experience with Crown Royale compared to Recovery Drink1:37:33 – Unclimbed lines on the Profile Wall, and where the name “Crown Royale” came from1:39:26 – Check out the Patron-only EXTRA with the Wide Boyz!

27 Nov 20231h 42min

Matt Segal is back on the podcast! Matt is one of the boldest trad climbers of his generation and just had his best climbing year ever at age 39. We talked about his new YouTube channel cooking show, his top cooking tips and the key to making delicious food, how he prepared to send Kryptonite 9a, and his ascent along with teammates Jesse Huey and Jordan Cannon of the famous Todd Skinner route ‘Cowboy Direct’ on the Nameless Tower in Pakistan.Subscribe to Matt’s YouTube Channel!youtube.com/@MattSegalOfficialBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-segal-returnsNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:06:37 – Jet lag and a whirlwind of travel0:08:14 – What Matt has been in the three years since our last episode, his FA on Mt Hooker with Jesse Huey, and getting engaged0:11:38 – Short recap of Matt’s paragliding accident in 20170:12:15 – Matt’s new YouTube channel, his magazine Brine, and his traveling + climbing + cooking idea0:15:05 – Getting deeper into cooking during the pandemic, and the vision for the YouTube channel0:18:44 – Upcoming guests on Matt’s channel, and my impression of the show0:22:16 – Matt’s #1 cooking tip, and the key to making delicious food0:27:40 – Matt’s go-to meals0:29:56 – Balancing nutrition with his love for cooking and enjoying life, traveling with his portable Traeger Grill, and his YouTube giveaway0:32:52 – Why Matt added protein shakes to his routine when he was trying Kryptonite0:37:23 – How Matt eats when he travels internationally, and his go-to bars for expeditions0:40:37 – Wanting to climb 9a, and what he learned from trying Kryptonite0:46:18 – His fiance’s accident at The Fortress the day he sent Kryptonite0:51:38 – Matt’s training leading up to trying Kryptonite, and setting mini-sub-goals0:57:10 – Try hard0:58:31 – The difference between sport climbing and hard dangerous trad climbing (headpointing)0:59:17 – Cutting edge trad routes worldwide1:01:05 – Going to Pakistan to try the famous route Cowboy Direct on Nameless Tower1:06:47 – What it feels like to climb 5.12 and 5.13 at 20,000 feet, the logistics involved to prep the route, and necessary suffering1:13:55 – How Matt felt after coming back from Pakistan, pivoting to hard trad, and moving away from dangerous climbing1:16:53 – Closing this chapter for Micah Dash1:20:18 – Astrisks in big wall and alpine climbing, the bond created between Matt, Jesse, and Jordan1:22:02 – Tough gainer1:25:23 – Patron question from Connor: Any cool Micah Dash stories?1:27:55 – New products from Alpine Start1:29:50 – Upcoming stuff for Matt1:31:02 – The enjoyment of food and what that means, and being more deliberate about who you spend your time with1:32:47 – Wrap up

20 Nov 20231h 35min