The Nugget Climbing Podcast

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Josh Wharton. We talked about how his flash attempt went on ‘Freerider’ this past November, big wall tactics and Josh’s strategy, inventing the fix-and-follow system and why it’s a game-changer, and other considerations for people who want to attempt ‘Freerider’ or other big wall free climbs.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 44:56.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJosh's Original Episode:EP 90: Josh Wharton

12 Mar 202227min

Martin Keller is a Swiss boulderer, climbing coach, and teacher, and is known for his long-term dedication to his bouldering projects. We talked about spending 150+ days projecting his FA of ‘Ninja Skills Sit’ V15/16, how to change our brain chemistry, how Martin trains on his outdoor projects, and how changing his mindset unlocked his hardest climbs.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/martin-kellerNuggets:0:08:13 – Martin’s “mini-epic” on ‘Ninja Skills Sit’ V15/160:14:02 – Finding inspiration in a project0:17:55 – Martin’s first bouldering trip, and being a slow learner0:23:28 – Preferring really cool projects to just sending another random climb, and asking what people like most about climbing0:25:34 – Being able to jump up a grade when you find something that fits you0:28:13 – Turning something ugly into something gracefully, and turning the impossible into something possible0:35:03 – Do whatever resonates with you, and climbing lots of new things on trips0:38:13 – Why willpower isn’t enough, and making your brain like what you do0:41:28 – Your brain wants you to do easy things, and how to trick your unconscious into wanting to train0:46:00 – How to get rid of cognitive friction, and tricks to make your brain want to go training0:51:39 – How to use breathwork to ramp up the nervous system for training0:54:20 – Long term vs short term stress0:58:16 – Using light to upregulate the nervous system, and dimming lights before sleep1:02:23 – How body temperature affects sleep, and avoiding screen time in the evening1:03:59 – Food before bed, and including carbs with dinner to help with sleep1:06:15 – What Martin does on his project when the conditions are bad, how he “trains” on his projects, and setting mini-goals1:16:40 – The Russian mindset, why more isn’t always better, and the difference between us and the pros1:20:52 – Why active rest days are important, why you should get a dog, and why doing good things for your climbing is also good for your life1:26:13 – Opportunity costs, choosing priorities, and being flexible with your training1:29:04 – Martin’s strategy for hard power endurance boulders, and bringing the sections of the boulder down to 80% effort (or 8 RPE)1:36:13 – Martin’s latest project on the Highlander boulder1:37:41 – Key Takeaway: Ask yourself what you really like about climbing and bouldering, and being proud of yourself for building a life around climbing1:39:48 – Letting out the steam1:42:32 – Why collecting excuses (explanations) can be helpful1:45:13 – Martin’s story about berating himself on Ninja Skills Sit, and learning how to speak more kindly to yourself1:51:13 – The example of spilling water on your laptop, and talking to yourself like you would talk to a friend1:55:43 – Martin’s hamstring injury, sunk costs, and how irrational our brains actually are2:02:01 – Figuring out what is important for yourself, and magic bullets2:05:43 – Being the first one to bring a battery-powered van to the boulders2:07:23 – How changing his mindset has helped Martin climb all of his hardest boulders after age 402:13:13 – The benefits of cold showers, and connecting dopamine to actions2:20:16 – Patron question from Nicole: How does Martin deal with making negative progress on projects? When does he walk away?2:36:05 – The pressure we create for ourselves2:41:07 – How to connect with Martin2:43:18 – Final words

7 Mar 20222h 46min

John Sherman is a bouldering legend. His nickname “Verm” (short for “Vermin”) is where the “V” in our bouldering grade system came from. We sat down in a cave in Hueco Tanks and talked about what bouldering was like 30+ years ago, early climbing shoes, highballing before crash pads were invented, out-of-body experiences, and how some of the boulders got their provocative names.Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-shermanNuggets:0:08:00 – Recording in a cave in Hueco Tanks, and the Triple Crown of roof cracks0:12:54 – Experiencing what climbing was like 30 years ago, and early climbing shoes0:19:24 – What brought John to Hueco for the first time, falling in love with the bouldering there, and Mike Head0:27:30 – John Gill, the legitimization of bouldering, and four technological advances in gear that changed climbing forever (sticky rubber, cordless drill, crash pads, and cams)0:35:35 – What Hueco was like in the winter of 19820:39:42 – A day in the life back then, and making the first “crash pads”0:45:14 – Chalk, and why sport climbing was the end of climbing as Verm learned it0:47:47 – Using the same terminology to describe different ethics, and doing ‘See Spot Run’ ground up without crash pads0:55:03 – Geckskin0:57:15 – Historical tidbit (the Swiss guides)0:58:04 – More context about ‘See Spot Run’1:02:24 – Adding layers to the bouldering experience1:07:49 – The definition of “Kehl-geling”, and John’s out-of-body experience when climbing ‘The Thimble’1:20:00 – Why John wears two chalk bags when he climbs, and wanting to climb like Alex Sharp and Andy Parkin1:23:59 – Wearing a helmet bouldering, and John’s New Jersey story about hitting his head1:35:00 – Patron question from Aiden: What inspired you to write Stone Crusade?1:41:57 – The Fiesta XXX Drive-In, and getting boulder problem names from a sex toy magazine1:47:36 – How ‘Daily Dick Dose’ got its name, and living in the Quonset hut1:52:44 – How John got the name “Verm” (short for “Vermin”)1:53:46 – Patron question from Carmelo: Are we ever going to see Old Man Lightning?1:54:54 – Patron question from Craig: Which bird most represents your personality?1:56:32 – Why California Condors are John’s favorite birds, and individual personalities

28 Feb 20222h 4min

Tim Emmett is a professional climber from the UK who practices everything from cutting edge ice climbing to deep water soloing to hard sport climbing. We talked about the gritstone scene in the UK, the “why” behind taking risk, climbing his hardest after age 40 and becoming a parent, training finger strength to try to climb ‘Era Vella’ 9a (5.14d), and passing on life philosophies to others.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tim-emmettNuggets:0:07:15 – Being a morning person as a parent0:10:33 – Coffee and morning rituals0:12:00 – Podcasting as an excuse to have amazing conversations0:17:29 – The Gritstone scene “back in the day”, living with Neil Gresham in Sheffield, and falling off of the ‘End of the Affair’ E80:22:50 – Tim explains the gritstone E grade system0:24:15 – Trying for the second ascent of ‘Meshuga’, and close calls on the grit0:35:43 – The “Why” behind grit climbing0:42:45 – The opportunity to do things you find easy, vs. things you find difficult or challenging, and how breakdowns lead to breakthroughs0:45:32 – Creativity, and why taking risk is an essential step in doing your best work0:47:10 – “People want to look good”, embracing vulnerability, and choosing the meaning we give to our lives0:51:10 – Letting go of being “right”0:52:54 – Switching to an “us” perspective, and asking questions rather than telling0:55:31 – The ego journey, and doing things that bring us into the moment1:04:40 – Trying ‘Era Vella’ 5.14d (9a), and Tim’s journey of discovery, and changing the word “failure” to “learning”1:09:47 – What Tim has changed to try to get higher on ‘Era Vella’, the magic of finger strength training, and the 10 dials1:12:15 – How Tim became a stronger climber after turning 40 and becoming a parent, and some of Tim’s inspirations in climbing1:20:46 – Being out in nature, Tim’s philosophy for staying stoked, and choosing to see the positive1:28:13 – “The magic formula is having strong fingers.”1:33:03 – How some specific training and some consistency can transform your climbing1:34:21 – Tim’s 4-month protocol for getting ready for ‘Era Vella’ (eating whole foods, cutting alcohol, running, etc.)1:41:51 – Recent injuries, and Tim’s progress on the hangboard1:48:39 – How Tim’s climbing fitness ebbs and flows,  how he structures his 4-month lead up to a goal, and his specific strength training plan for ‘Era Vella’1:59:26 – How Tim and his friends would train for hard ice climbing in Helmken Falls2:01:00 – Core exercises, pushups, and antagonist training2:02:20 – Power endurance training, and how Tim trained power endurance for ‘Era Vella’ in his gym in Squamish using circuits2:07:23 – Combining hangboarding to failure with bouldering to simulate route climbing2:07:59 – Applying breathing techniques (hypoxic training) from freediving to sport climbing or high-altitude climbing2:11:33 – Cold-water swimming2:13:17 – Bringing breathing techniques from freediving into rock climbing and ice climbing, pressure breathing, and Wim Hof breathing techniques2:21:35 – What connects all of Tim’s different interests, collecting life experiences, and curiosity of human performance2:25:23 – Public speaking, inspiring kids to open up their lives, and giving them the tools to take on their dreams2:29:34 – Having an open mind, and Tim’s other life philosophies2:32:30 – Being friendly, and listening to people2:34:29 – Where to connect with Tim, and more about his coaching2:37:08 – “Life is what’s happening right now.”

21 Feb 20222h 42min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Tom Randall. We went deep into how to program your training as a self-coached climber. We talked about how to use your friends to discover your strengths and weaknesses, how to work backward from goals, how long it takes to make major changes in your climbing like switching from bouldering to sport climbing, and much more. *This is one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded, for anyone who wants to improve at climbing. Seriously. Don’t skip this episode if you are interested in training.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:44:52.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTom's Original Episode:EP 74: Tom Randall

17 Feb 202237min

Hans Florine has held the speed record on ‘The Nose’ on El Capitan 8 separate times. He has climbed the route 112 times, with 100+ people. He loves ‘The Nose’ so much, he wrote a book about it. We talked about winning the first International Speed Climbing Championships in 1991, his earliest ascents of El Cap, top 3 big wall efficiency tips, and the value of doing hard things.Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/hans-florineNuggets:0:05:29 – Why Hans uses “exacting time” to schedule things, and respecting other people’s time0:11:24 – Being a chameleon when traveling0:12:52 – 182 laps up El Cap, and 112 ascents on ‘The Nose’0:14:37 – Hans’ first speed climbing World Cups, and the first climbing World Championship in Frankfurt, Germany in 19910:24:34 – How European culture shaped Hans’ perception, and receiving international recognition for holding the speed record on ‘The Nose’0:27:55 – Patron question from Ana: What are Hans’ thoughts on the evolution of speed climbing competitions, and different formats?0:34:37 – Hans’ first trip up El Cap via the Salathe in 19860:41:09 – His first failed attempt on ‘The Nose’, and going for the speed record with Steve “Shipoopoi” Schneider0:48:15 – Hans’ favorite Peter Croft story0:50:37 – A question from Craig DeMartino, and what it is about ‘The Nose’ that captivates Hans0:54:02 – Some failure stories on ‘The Nose’0:57:57 – How the Stove Legs got their name, and the haul cart with wheels1:02:05 – Wrapping up the story of the first speed record with Steve Schneider1:06:40 – Developing an obsession with the speed record on ‘The Nose’1:12:16 – Biggest logistical and tactical improvements in speed climbing ‘The Nose’1:19:04 – Writing the book on speed climbing, and going for the speed record with Alex Honnold1:25:51 – Patron question from Christoph: Top 3 tricks for being efficient on a big wall route?1:34:09 – The Tom Frost story, and how much water to bring on a big wall1:37:12 – Hans’ perspective on the current record on ‘The Nose’1:45:53 – How fast can The Nose be climbed?1:48:03 – Will Hans try for the speed record again?1:48:40 – Patron question from Henry: Has Hans’ attitude toward speed climbing changed after his accident? Does speed climbing become less sensible as one gets older?1:56:25 – A question from Hazel Findlay, and the award Hans would give her1:58:04 – Hans thoughts on free climbing El Cap, and an argument for climbing ‘The Nose’ “as free as can be”2:04:49 – Hans’ time focused on onsighting in the 80s and 90s2:08:55 – 8a.nu and plans for his time in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky2:11:15 – Takeaways from climbing ‘The Nose’ with more than 100 different people2:13:22 – Who has affected Hans most in his climbing2:16:27 – A message from Craig DeMartino2:17:50 – Patron question from Craig: Who is your greatest non-climbing influence and why?2:19:31 – Ryan Reynolds2:20:14 – Doing hard things, and the DHT Challenge2:22:41 – Applying manufacturing experiences to climbing2:24:34 – How Hans is making a living now with construction2:26:31 – How to connect with Hans, and more about the DHT Challenge2:31:17 – What Hans is excited about right now2:32:20 – What is next for Hans Florine

14 Feb 20222h 38min

Brent Barghahn has rope soloed ‘The Nose’ in a day, freed multiple routes on El Cap, and is a former engineer at Black Diamond. We talked about how Brent combined van life and “house hacking” to effectively retire at 28-years-old, about motocross and extreme unicycling, cutting his teeth on hard trad routes in LCC, and his setup for redpoint rope soloing.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brent-barghahnNuggets:0:05:41 – Living in the BD parking lot, using van life as a way to save money, and a snapshot of Brent’s life 2.5 years ago0:09:40 – My (Steven’s) stint living in a van in my employer’s parking lot0:10:59 – Brent’s urban van life tips, stealth camping, and choosing van life as a financial tool0:16:27 – Two different van life ethos0:17:16 – What Brent’s life looks like now, house hacking, and how Brent “retired” at 28-years-old0:35:21 – Extreme Unicycling, welding, and his charge account at the local hardware store0:43:37 – Motocross, and similarities between action sports and trad climbing0:46:01 – How dangerous climbing stacks up to motocross, and rope soloing The Nose in a day0:49:04 – Getting hurt every year, quitting motocross, and discovering climbing0:51:58 – How Brent improved so quickly in climbing, and why he loves technical granite climbing0:57:38 – Patron question from Christoph: How do you train for hard trad climbing specifically?0:58:50 – Patron question from Christoph: How does his preparation for hard trad redpoints differ from sport?1:00:11 – Finishing climbs after a failed flash/onsight attempt1:01:08 – Brent’s formative years trad climbing in LCC1:05:48 – Why Brent chooses rope solo free climbing for some of his ascents, and his first rope solo NIAD (Nose in a day)1:13:27 – Brent’s rope solo free climbing setup, and freeing ‘Father Time’ on Middle Cathedral via rope solo1:23:31 – Brent’s take on big wall free climbing ethics, groud up ascents, his stance to stance philosophy, and the “Affect Minimal Parties” ethos1:33:39 – Brent’s biggest aspirations in the Valley1:34:46 – Brent’s go-to shoes for technical granite, and how he is training for ‘Magic Line’1:42:24 – Choosing Flagstaff as a home base1:45:15 – How Brent decides when to go on trips vs. stay local, and finding meaningful “work” now that he is “retired”1:49:21 – Brent’s blog and other sedentary rest day activities1:54:22 – What’s next

7 Feb 20221h 58min

Amity Warme is one of the most badass trad climbers you’ve never heard of. She also has a master's in nutrition. We talked about her incredible season in Yosemite including ground-up free ascents of ‘Freerider’ and ‘Golden Gate’, the importance of logistics in big wall free climbing, what she learned growing up in gymnastics, training plans, and eating more to do more.Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amity-warmeNuggets:0:06:14 – Winter weather in the PNW0:11:19 – My first impression of Amity, and her Yosemite season tick list0:13:11 – How to get good climbing photos (of yourself)0:18:05 – The prerequisite skills required to have a successful season free climbing in Yosemite, and being willing to suffer0:22:27 – Some of Amity’s background in climbing before showing up to Yosemite0:25:33 – Meeting Hans Florine, deciding to go to Yosemite, and a surprise ground-up free ascent of ‘Freerider’0:30:00 – Sending ‘Golden Gate’ ground up0:31:56 – Learning how to haul on the side of Will’s van0:33:44 – Patron question from Cody: What is the best way to acquire the hard skills of multi-pitch and big wall climbing?0:34:55 – “It’s always worth being willing to go for it”, and redefining what success is to you0:36:49 – How to care a lot about something while being detached from the outcome0:38:03 – The importance of technical climbing vs. logistical skills when it comes to big wall free climbing0:41:42 – What Amity taught Tyler about free climbing efficiency up on ‘Golden Gate’, and what she learned from Tyler about logistics, rope systems, and living on the wall0:45:53 – Patron question from Nolan: Where does Amity’s ground-up ethic come from?0:49:04 – Patron question from Rob: How do you prepare for a ground-up ascent?0:51:02 – Patron question from Savva about what it was like climbing ‘Golden Gate’, and Amity’s first time climbing the Monster Offwidth0:57:10 – How Amity plans to prepare for her next Yosemite season, and planning to train for the first time1:01:07 – Amity’s background in gymnastics, and sending  a 5.10 her very first time climbing1:07:36 – Climbing as a lifetime sport1:10:52 – Residual injuries from gymnastics1:13:46 – Patron questions from Martin and Ainsley: What from gymnastics has served you most in climbing?1:15:33 – Oppositional exercises from gymnastics that Amity still does, and doing ring exercises on the road1:17:11 – Amity’s weaknesses and plans for training this winter1:22:05 – Rest nights vs. rest days, and getting energy out vs. recovering to try a hard project1:25:18 – Studying nutrition and helping climbers eat more to support their climbing1:28:32 – The prevalence of under-fueling in climbers, and eating more without gaining weight1:33:29 – The complexity of the energy-in-energy-out equation, and why losing weight is a bad long-term strategy1:37:48 – Thoughts on protein amounts, timing, and sources, targeting carbohydrates around activity, and eating a variety of different foods1:42:46 – Replacing weight goal with performance goals1:45:19 – My experience with elevated blood sugar from a food sensitivity1:50:07 – How to connect with Amity, and her vision for future work and nutrition coaching1:51:51 – Patron question from Rob: How does Amity plan her nutrition for big wall projects?1:57:07 – Amity’s next climbing goal, and the next step in her registered dietitian journey1:59:36 – What inspires Amity2:03:09 – How Amity hopes to empower others2:07:26 – Wrap up

31 Jan 20222h 10min