The Nugget Climbing Podcast

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyler Nelson. We talked about a recent study Tyler did with 23 different climbers to measure their finger tendon and bone lengths, and their ability to generate force on different edge sizes. We covered Tyler’s latest recommendations for max strength finger training, how to get stronger on small holds, and when and how to use hangboard repeaters. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:16:59.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTyler’s Original Episode:EP 79: Tyler Nelson

29 Jan 202226min

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is a professional climber from the UK. She is also a writer, speaker, and co-host of the Curious Climber Podcast along with Hazel Findlay. We talked about her early life, impermanence, flow state, learning to try really hard, how she made the switch from hard boulders to hard sport routes, what sets high-level climbers apart, and the decision to become a mom.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mina-leslie-wujastykNuggets:0:05:52 – Baby life0:09:40 – How Mina and I met, and her road trip to the US in 20120:14:18 – Mina at age 25, and competing on the World Cup circuit0:18:10 – Project mentality, quick sends, and unfinished business0:21:02 – Patron question from Konstantinos, and Mina’s first gym and early climbing mentors0:24:27 – Living in India as a kid and how that shaped Mina’s worldview0:30:28 – Impermanence, and the lesson Mina learned from her dad as an early teenager0:33:09 – Being exposed to both indoor and outdoor climbing as a kid0:35:22 – Doing both route climbing and bouldering as a teenager, bouldering as social-climbing, and making the British team0:38:03 – Mina’s first trip to Rocklands South Africa and more about her road trip around the US0:40:14 – Bouldering in the South East (US) and climbing in the Red River Gorge0:42:01 – Loving climbing, pushing too hard, and crashing0:47:52 – The challenge makes the experience0:51:55 – Flow and highballing0:58:16 – How climbing ethics shape our experience1:00:43 – Why do we seek flow?1:03:12 – Tapping into our most primal selves1:04:46 – An excerpt from Mina’s article: ‘Pushing It’, and British ascents1:08:11 – Learning to try really hard, and the yin and the yang1:12:52 – Unfinished business1:16:28 – ‘Just Do It’1:19:27 – What lead Mina to shift her focus to sport climbing1:22:44 – Climbing the 70m ‘Totally Free 2’ in one pitch, and stashing candy in her sports bra1:28:48 – How aerobic capacity training (Aero Cap) helped her transition to sport climbing1:35:19 – What sets high-level boulders apart, and how good tactics make the difference1:40:25 – What specific tactics Mina learned from her partner David, and a funny story1:45:35 – What sets high-level sport climbers apart, and Mina’s experience on ‘Nordic Plumber’1:49:20 – “Climbing isn’t just about being fit and strong, it’s about being clever and creative”1:50:54 – Mina’s thoughts on returning to ‘Rainshadow’, and two bad accidents1:57:52 – The decision to have a kid2:03:52 – RED-S, and how her recovery led to the decision to have Isaac2:07:26 – The best surprises with becoming a mom, and the miracle of pregnancy2:11:13 – Question from Anna about training during pregnancy2:15:58 – Studying nutrition, and thoughts on nutrition during pregnancy2:18:22 – What led to starting The Curious Climber Podcast, and recommended episodes (linked in show notes)2:23:54 – Wrap up

24 Jan 20222h 27min

Matty Hong is a professional rock climber, photographer, and filmmaker. We talked about what it was like to grow up in a climbing family, about making the first repeat of ‘Flex Luthor’ 5.15b as well as a history of the route and his thoughts on the grade, training for sport climbing projects on his home wall, climbing waterfalls in Japan, and balancing photography and filmmaking with climbing.Check out Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, and Jeremiah JohnsonBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matty-hongNuggets:0:05:51 – How Matty listens to podcasts0:08:53 – Growing up in a climbing family, and his connection with his parents0:13:10 – What his parents have instilled in him as a climber, and keeping the ego in check0:15:23 – Early milestones in Matty’s climbing0:18:41 – Loving all of the challenges and variety to be found in climbing0:20:41 – Second-guessing the path, being grateful for climbing, and having a beginner’s mindset with photography and filmmaking0:24:43 – Trying ‘Flex Luthor’ for a year, and the history of the route0:30:26 – Meeting Matty up at the Fortress, and his process on ‘Flex Luthor’0:40:45 – Patron question from Landolini: How likely is it that Tommy climbed 9b (5.15b)?0:48:51 – Matty’s thoughts on grading0:51:55 – Matty’s most memorable climbing achievements0:53:53 – Climbing waterfalls in Japan with Yuji Hirayama1:01:31 – Thoughts on adventure climbing, and his trip to India1:06:19 – Matty’s campus board and home wall1:09:29 – How Matty trained for ‘Flex Luthor’ on his home wall, and his relaxed approach to training1:19:46 – Patron question from Adriel: Any tips for using bouldering as training for sport climbing? (And more about his training for Flex)1:24:02 – Why Matty thinks sport climbing in a gym (vs. bouldering) is a waste of time1:25:54 – Sport climbing is a strategy-based puzzle1:28:37 – Goals and challenges1:31:09 – Patron question from Ben: Do you have any bouldering or trad goals?1:35:08 – Patron question from One_rocky_boi: How does Matty balance photography and filmmaking with climbing?1:43:14 – The camera as a gift1:45:03 – Matty’s proudest photos, and the challenges in filmmaking1:49:39 – What’s next?1:54:11 – Nocturne Op 62 No 1 in B (Performed by Matty Hong)

17 Jan 20222h 1min

Nina Caprez is a professional rock climber from Switzerland, who is known for her many impressive ascents of hard multi-pitch climbs. We talked about her current trip to Greece and her newest passion project, trying to free climb ‘The Nose’ with Lynn Hill, why failing on the route was a gift, and about softening and leaning into womanness. *Nina also shared some exciting news in this episode!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, and Robert FreehillBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nina-caprezNuggets:6:39 – Where in the world is Nina Caprez?9:44 – Nina describes her camping scene in Greece, and finding a new balance between travel and adventure12:41 – The climbing in southern Greece, and the Andrea Project and bringing climbing to refugee camps17:31 – Speaking 4 languages, and Nina’s recent Andrea Project in Romania22:38 – Trying to free The Nose, burning out, and starting the Andrea Project with Jeremy and building the truck29:20 – Being fulfilled from her new lifestyle, and sharing her passion32:17 – Why “failing” on The Nose was the best thing that has happened for Nina36:26 – “It was really time to let go”, and spending 7 days on the wall with Lynn Hill40:45 – Nina and Jeremy’s vision for the Andrea Project44:19 – Inspiration, letting goals happen naturally, and complete satisfaction46:08 – Leaning into different parts of herself as a woman47:43 – Food guilt, Nina’s natural cycle with the seasons, and listening to her body52:11 – Using a low carb diet to drop 2kg of weight for The Nose, and realizing it was too much 53:49 – Flirting with the line, and wanting to prove something to someone else55:27 – Climbing as an escape, guilt and jealously, and softening59:31 – Question from Steve McClure: How does Nina balance performance with adventure? 1:01:56 – Her first climb at age 13, and growing up in the mountains, and leaving home to evolve1:04:42 – Living “gypsy style” in France1:06:41 – Traveling, and some of the places Nina has fallen in love with1:13:57 – You don’t have to go far away to find an adventure1:15:04 – Feeling attracted to the East, and wanting to bring climbing to people in need1:16:50 – How Andrea got its (her?) name1:17:42 – Another question from Steve McClure: Have you thought about having kids?1:21:23 – Stories from Nina’s proudest climbing achievements1:26:51 – Patron question from Randall: What's your process for big walls? Rap in vs. ground up?  How do you physically prepare for such an experience?1:28:36 – Endurance as a strength, not feeling fear, and becoming comfortable living in the vertical space1:32:24 – “Training” through climbing, and thriving on variety1:36:49 – “We keep it as a secret…”

10 Jan 20221h 38min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my training plan for Hueco in 2022, how to structure my weeks and days, how to continue progressing my V12 and V13 pyramids, how to use bouldering intervals to maintain aerobic capacity for sport climbing, and Steve laid out a hangboard plan to prime my crimp strength for Hueco. *I recommend listening to Steve’s original episode and my first Follow-Up with him before this episode.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:40:55.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve’s Other Episodes:EP 70: Steve MaischFollow-Up: Steve Maisch  (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021)

7 Jan 20225min

Ben Moon is a famous rock climber from the UK. He was the first person to climb 5.14c (8c+) with his route ‘Hubble’. He is also the inventor of the MoonBoard. We talked about his early climbing experiences as a kid, his first road trip to Buoux in France in 1984, how training and sport climbing have changed, how Ben uses the MoonBoard, and much more.Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, and Robert FreehillBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ben-moonNuggets:6:02 – Putting a face to the voice, Ben’s travels in the US back in the day, and feeling like he missed out on traveling9:17 – A dry November in the UK, and Will Bosi doing the first repeat of ‘Mutation’11:14 – How Ben first started to climb at age 714:38 – Being “bitten right away” by climbing, and breaking his wrist skateboarding16:17 – Flopping out of school and living off the dole and climbing full time18:57 – Hunter House Road22:16 – Standards and climbing styles in the early 80s, and training on a brick wall26:16 – Climbing equipment in 198427:53 – Buoux, meeting Jerry Moffatt, and Ben’s first-ever road trip35:38 – Doing the FA of ‘Statement of Youth’ 37:54 – Friendly competition39:08 – Dreadlocks and punk rock40:10 – Shifting to bouldering for its own sake42:32 – From 8a to 8c+ (or 9a) in 6 years… what was happening?45:28 – The School Room46:36 – How Ben and Jerry were training in the School Room, how it compares to how people train now, and Ben’s thoughts on deadhanging (hangboarding) and campus boarding51:00 – How the Moonboard first came to be56:56 – Moon Climbing as a company 1:00:42 – Patron question from Griffin: Favorite Moonboard hold set? Best for training? 1:02:06 – Patron question from Rebecca: New hold sets coming? Have you thought about circuits?  1:03:28 – Patron question from Karl: Looking back, what would you change about the Moonboard holds or design?1:05:22 – Why the Moonboard is a vastly more powerful training tool than Ben’s old cellar board1:07:37 – Patron question from Will: How does Ben use the Moonboard, and what are some of his go-to session formats?1:12:35 – Bouldering as Ben’s top training priority, and why he thinks variety is key1:14:11 – How Ben structures his training throughout the year, and within a week 1:17:10 – What Ben and I would each change about our training if we could go back in time1:21:21 – FA of ‘Voyager Sit’ 8B+ (V14)1:24:07 – Quitting climbing after ‘Voyager Sit’, and coming back and climbing ‘Rainshadow’ 9a (5.14d)1:27:59 – Training fitness on the route, and gaining fitness with age, but fighting to maintain strength1:31:17 – Circuit training at the climbing gym1:34:30 – Question from Steve McClure: Does Ben feel the age thing yet?1:38:24 – Ben’s ongoing battle with ‘Northern Lights’, and thoughts on kneebars1:45:38 – Patron question from Markham: Background on the Mini MoonBoard? Future plans for it?1:47:07 – Ben’s thoughts on the MoonBoard gades (he thinks they’re hard!)1:49:24 – How hard Ben climbs on the MoonBoard1:50:11 – Patron question from Florian: Is the Mini MoonBoard the most relevant board for training for rock? 1:51:41 – Recommendations for people who train on a MoonBoard at home, and future tools that will help1:54:29 – Patron question from PogoStickJoe: What is the definition of Dowsy Fuck? (turns out it was “Dozy Fuck”), and what it feels like for Ben to watch his old movies1:56:45 – Patron question from Oskar: Where can I watch The Real Thing online? (It’s in the show notes!)1:57:45 – Patron question from Andreson: Any expedition stories?1:58:34 – Starting a clothing brand, and getting inspiration from Christian Griffith2:00:28 – What is Ben’s legacy?2:02:20 – Which of Ben’s climbing achievements stand out to him2:02:37 – What’s next for Ben, and unfinished goals 2:03:40 – Where you can find Ben (@moonclimbing on Instagram)2:03:59 – “Train hard, climb harder.”

3 Jan 20222h 7min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Paige Claassen. We talked about her send of ‘Kryptonite’ shortly after our first interview, how she warms up for a 5.14+ project at a remote cliff, what she learned from trying ‘Empath’ 5.15a, how she trained for and projected ‘Dreamcatcher’, getting gratification from the process, learning to celebrate, and updates on crag snacks and more.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:25.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingPaige's original episode:EP 24: Paige Claassen

16 Des 202131min

In Q&A 4, I tackle patron questions about Hueco round 2 and other goals for 2022, my plans for V12 and 5.14, how my trip to Leavenworth went and plans to return, my favorite features in the van, dating on the road, my remote working setup, what I’ve learned from nearly 100 episodes of the podcast, and making sense of conflicting advice. *Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, and David LahaieBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWebsite Links:Top ListsSteven’s FavoritesShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-4Nuggets:0:00 – Intro and updates7:04 – My Climbing / Training / Goals: 7:14 – Oskar: Tips for night climbing?14:07 – Taylor: Plans for Hueco round 2?16:53 – Casey: Hueco tick list? And what about Rifle?17:57 – Casey: Do you prefer to write your own training programs or to have a coach?18:46 – Casey: Outdoor vs. indoor bouldering performance? Does it matter?21:27 – Casey: Do you like night sessions? Is it hard to fall asleep after?22:52 – Jimmy: Favorite endurance workout on a home wall? 25:43 – Karl: Do you think kneepads change grades?33:12 – Tim: Do you ever climb easy stuff for fun?35:44 – Tyler: Party tricks vs. helpful training?38:14 – Tyler: Dream areas or routes in Canada?38:55 – Andrew: What makes a limit boulder problem “limit”? What makes a perfect repeat “perfect”?42:32 – Shanna: What will you implement from the PCC?46:24 – Jordan: Have you dabbled in trad or multi-pitch climbing?49:44 – Eric: What is the softest 5.14 in the US? Why aren’t you trying it now?51:09 – Nolan: How have you moved past plateaus?53:08 – Nolan: Have you been on JDI yet?54:35 – Conor: Can you tell us about your early climbing and training? What would you change?58:20 – RJB: Where are you on your climbing journey?1:00:57 – Luke: Goals for 2022? How do you go about goalsetting?1:09:06 – Drew: Did you come back to try The Practitioner? And how did it go?1:12:55 – David: Goals in Leavenworth?1:14:37 – Nutrition / Weight Gain:1:14:45 – Karl: Does starch count as sugar?1:17:33 – Angelo: I’m embracing my body type and getting stronger, but when will I stop gaining weight?1:23:15 – Vanlife / Current Lifestyle / Personal Life:1:23:24 – Tyler/Ethan/Luke: Favorite van features? What did you bring but haven’t used? 1:28:03 – Tyler: Can you describe work station in your van? What is your internet setup?1:31:50 – Matt: Any mice in the van?1:32:54 – Jordan: How long have you had your van? Thoughts on dirtbagging now vs. pre-van?1:34:47 – Michael: Pee bottle tips?1:36:54 – Logan: Why did you choose your van?1:39:27 – Howard: Health insurance as a vanlifer?1:41:53 – Nolan: Have you settled into the lifestyle as a full-time vanlifer podcast superstar yet?1:43:59 – Desiree: What are some favorite experiences you get to have living on the road? Pitfalls? Tips?1:49:29 – John: How do you handle long winter nights in the van?1:50:42 – Alexandra: How is a dating life when living in a van?1:53:56 – Shanna: Are you living in the van nonstop? Do you think you can do it indefinitely?1:56:49 – John: Coffee or tea? Method of brewing? Any tats?1:57:45 – Brian: Vanlife product you just can’t get behind?1:58:42 – Brian: What have you given up for vanlife that you miss?1:59:35 – Brian: What alternate life would you be content with?2:00:41 – Daniel: Do you still play video games?2:03:26 – Liam: Did you save up money before quitting your job, or say fuck it? Also, what is your climbing story?2:06:30 – Jonathan: What is your relationship to mindfulness or meditation? How do they affect your life and climbing?2:10:52 – Fun / Funny / Other:2:11:00 – Tyler S: Weirdest smell you’ve had in the van?2:12:03 – Tyler S: Most ridiculous outfit you’ve climbed in? 2:13:27 – Tyler B: Any plans to head out east to climb on southern sandstone? Dream climbing trip?2:14:49 – Tyler B: Who would you like to spend a climbing with?2:15:42 – Brian: Other hobbies?2:17:21 – Brian: Who would you take on a multi-pitch climb?2:18:18 – Podcasting / What I’ve Learned From Episodes:2:18:30 – Ryan: You’ve put out nearly 100 episodes—How do you deal with conflicting advice from all of these badass climbers? 2:24:22 – Tyler: If you could collaborate with any podcast, what would it be?2:25:30 – Tyler: Top 3 podcast guests?2:26:36 – Finn: What interview do you find yourself organically thinking back to the most?  2:28:23 – Garrett: Has the podcast made you a better communicator? Has it made you more confident when meeting people?2:31:30 – Wrapup

13 Des 20212h 33min