The Nugget Climbing Podcast

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyson Schoene. We talked about the recent USA Climbing 2021 National Championships, some of the differences and similarities between his top athletes like Quinn, Melina, Drew, and Sean, keeping training simple, how newer adult climbs can mimic training like a team kid, and finding the important questions in our training and climbing.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:33:49.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTyson's original episode:EP 29: Tyson Schoene

11 Des 202131min

Kyra Condie is a 25-year-old professional climber based out of Salt Lake City, UT, and was one of four climbers to represent the US at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. We talked about whistling, dream broadway roles, training with a fused spine, pursuing the Olympic dream, separating self-worth from results, new tattoos, her cats, cleaning quirks, and thriving in organized chaos.Check out Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kyra-condieNuggets:5:24 – Competitive whistling, and comparing her brother to Mozart10:13 – Musical theater, piano, and flute11:12 – Kyra’s dream broadway roll, and Les Miserables13:04 – Allison’s (Vest) role in the broadway scenario13:42 – Trying other sports, and discovering climbing15:52 – Patron question from Atlin: If you were to do an Olympic sport besides climbing, what would you want it to be?17:32 – The variety of climbing as a double edge sword19:22 – Interest in comps vs. outdoor climbing23:24 – An X-ray description of Kyra’s back25:06 – Severe idiopathic scoliosis, getting surgery shortly after finding climbing, and growing 2” overnight28:27 – Seatbelts and toilet paper29:39 – How Kyra trains around her back limitation, and how the changes in setting style have forced her to face it head-on33:30 – Shifting her focus more toward lead, and a recap of Nationals37:28 – Separating self-worth from results40:18 – How Kyra feels about her Tokyo experience46:17 – First Olympian with a spinal fusion (at least as large as hers)48:12 – The Olympics as a goal 50:23 – Enjoying not having a goal after Tokyo, and star chasing52:41 – Plans for a non-climbing vacation, and a slight burnout on competitions 53:58 – Being more open about her back as a disability, and being more relatable to others56:24 – 2024 Olympics?58:26 – How Kyra’s training changed leading up to the Olympics, and thriving in organized chaos1:01:40 – How Kyra’s climbing changed from the prep for the Olympics1:03:28 – Thoughts on speed climbing and psicobloc, and deep water soloing in Vietnam with Tim Emmett1:07:18 – Patron question from Liam: Have you always tried to climb fast in lead? Have you tried other styles?1:09:28 – Training your strengths, and supplementing to address weaknesses1:12:59 – Adopting Pepper and Pika (Kyra’s cats)1:15:30 – Martha the robot-vacuum1:17:08 – Skin and dishwashing gloves, and Kyra’s detergent sponsor1:19:22 – Cleaning/tidiness quarks1:21:23 – Sad movies, and looking for movies on Reddit1:25:08 – Marvel movies, and superheroes1:26:02 – Other favorite movies1:27:21 – Going blonde, and new tattoos1:31:47 – Patron question from Eli: What is your favorite part about your being so deeply ingrained or intertwined with climbing? What is the worst part?1:36:58 – Patron question from Eli: What do you hope the Olympic experience will bring to the broader climbing community?1:38:15 – Olympic memories1:39:14 – What Kyra is most proud of in her climbing career so far, and giving her best1:41:44 – What’s good1:43:07 – What’s next, where to find Kyra, and sharing advice on Reddit1:45:24 – Present focus

6 Des 20211h 50min

Austin Hoyt is an 18-year-old kid from New York whose tick list rivals some professional climbers. We talked about balancing school with climbing, what he learned from his first coach, his FA of ‘Flashing Lights’ V14, his love of The Gunks, making old-school climbing films, the support from his dad, and his ongoing goal to develop the bouldering scene in the Northeast.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/austin-hoytNuggets:4:30 – Austin’s bouldering stats at age 18, and how he fits climbing in while going to school8:12 – Some of Austin's typical weekend destinations9:48 – Favorite areas in the Northeast11:38 – How Austin started climbing (Ninja Warrior + ice cream shop), and doing V3 his first week15:11 – Crediting everything to his first coach Charlie, and negative reinforcement18:41 – Drills and spray wall climbing23:34 – Climbing at Powerlines, and getting into doing first ascents (FAs)25:25 – “Chase me”, and what Austin learned from watching his coach Charlie climb27:25 – Finding new boulders in famous areas29:17 – The Gunks, and Austin’s Gunkaholics film series33:40 – The season in The Gunks, and what Austin does when it rains for two weeks34:44 – Balancing projecting, outdoor climbing for volume, and indoor training37:15 – The mental battle of projecting, and the first ascent of ‘Flashing Lights’ V1443:14 – ‘Nuclear War’ V1345:52 – Filmmaking, and Austin’s film equipment and influence 49:18 – College plans and dreams to make adventure films52:00 – Plan for a gap year, and comp training54:42 – Dave Graham56:18 – How Austin trains power on a spray wall 57:30 – Guidance for setting a spray wall, and the skill of making up hard climbs to train on1:00:24 – What a spray wall session looks like, and training strengths vs. weaknesses1:02:28 – Patron Question from Brandon: Do you have any roped ambitions in New England?1:04:22 – Bouldering vs. trad in The Gunks1:05:44 – Patron Question from Will: What is your favorite crag north of The Gunks?1:07:48 – Patron Question from Jack: What is your favorite problem on the Speed Boulder at GB?1:08:55 – Patron Question from Avery: How did you become the master of vert?1:11:25 – Austin’s dad, motocross, and broken bones1:14:13 – How his dad supported him in climbing ‘Nuclear Base’ V141:17:39 – Austin’s new project1:19:18 – Climbing algorithms, “The Formula”, and Austin’s perspective on grades1:22:36 – The dream of becoming a pro climber, the current goal of developing the Northeast, my experiences in Leavenworth, and making lists1:26:05 – Applying to colleges near climbing1:27:07 – Beta Labs, and ideas for building his own business1:30:54 – Shoutouts to his sponsors

29 Nov 20211h 35min

Joe Kinder is one of the hardest-working route developers in North America. We talked about his recent ascent of ‘Kinder Cakes’ 5.15a in Rifle, CO,  putting up routes in mediocre rock, leaving a legacy through route development, his love of projecting, current training approach, fashion influences, creating LOV, and his experience with cancellation and rebuilding a new life.Check out Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joe-kinderNuggets:6:50 – Clipping chains, Joe’s goals for his trip to Rifle, and the Wicked Cave11:01 – Putting up routes in mediocre rock14:54 – The responsibility and reward of putting up routes, and leaving a legacy18:16 – Establishing vs. FAing a route, and keeping routes open vs. red-tagging22:14 – “It’s a case-to-case scenario.”24:55 – Putting up hard vs. moderate routes, giving back, and being surprised by the difficulty of new lines27:33 – The emotional rollercoaster of projecting, how Joe and I met, and his love of climbing33:04 – Climbing as a drug addiction34:57 – My “addicty” behavior, and why Joe finds Jonathan Siegrist fascinating38:31 – The ebbs and flows, breaks, and comebacks43:59 – Embracing the plan B’s of life44:56 – Lessons from finger injuries49:18 – The Skull Cave, and how ‘Diarrhea Mouth’ got its name52:29 – ‘Kinder Cakes’, proposing grades, and picking limit projects in your style58:20 – Breakdown of ‘Kinder Cakes’, the send, and those special moments1:03:46 – The days after ‘Kinder Cakes’, and needing to work1:06:16 – Sushi celebration1:07:25 – How ‘Kinder Cakes’ stacks up against Joe’s other hardest routes, and “we do what we can”1:09:05 – Joe’s early climbing in New England, and the project-focused approach1:11:18 – Joe’s first experience with training, and planning his year around the Rifle project1:13:39 – Getting training ideas from Eric Horst, Patxi Usobiaga, and developing his own program1:16:37 – ‘Activator’, watching Cam repeat ‘Bone Tomahawk’, and Joe’s year leading up to ‘Kinder Cakes’1:23:47 – Purchasing strength, Joe’s outdoor vs. indoor balance, and more about the ‘Goonies’ project1:28:29 – The ‘Bone Tomahawk’ extension project1:31:47 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes’ (month 1)1:41:31 – Training as a callus, and taking your time to build it up1:41:46 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes’ (month 2)1:44:55 – Thoughts about in-season strength maintenance1:46:37 – Keeping an open mind, dropping the ego, and lessons from the Spaniards1:50:10 – “Always try shit.”1:50:39 – Who Joe looks up to in climbing1:53:38 – The current era of pro climbing, and how pro climbing has evolved1:57:01 – Stories, podcasting, and creating balance2:00:25 – Joe’s movies, LOV as a creative outlet1:04:55 – How LOV (Life of Villains) got its name, and rooting for the villains in movies2:07:25 – More about LOV (the brand), and collaborations with non-profits2:12:07 – Patron Question from Devon: How do you pick athletes for the LOV shirts, and can you make a replica of the Bruce Lee shirt that Josune is wearing in her photo?2:14:57 – Fashion influences, confidence, my bleached hair, and Joe’s nicknames for me2:20:42 – Patron Question from Ben: How does Joe’s experience climbing on established routes differ from FA’s?2:23:02 – Patron Question from Simon: Who has Joe drawn inspiration from outside of the sport of climbing?2:25:05 – Graffiti2:28:03 – Joe’s experience with cancelation2:42:09 – My thoughts about Joe and him rebuilding a new life2:47:45 – Thanks and an apology2:48:07 – Gratitude and appreciation2:50:01 – Support mode, then on to the next

22 Nov 20212h 53min

Tyler Algeo is a Canadian who moved to Africa and started a climbing gym, with the goal of creating a socio-economically inclusive climbing community in Malawi. We talked about learning to climb in Ireland, living in Africa, founding Climb Malawi, adopting and raising his two black sons, Tyler’s work with The Climbing Initiative, and creating a better world through climbing.Donate To:safeclimbing.orgclimbmalawi.comclimbinginitiative.orgSupport the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-algeoNuggets:5:05 – Living in Cincinnati and growing up in Calgary6:14 – Learning to climb in Ireland9:50 – Working in Ireland10:13 – How Tyler and his wife ended up in Malawi14:24 – Having to return to the States due to Covid, and salary differences between foreign workers and locals in Malawi17:25 – Description of Malawi, the topography, and rock climbing 21:39 – The population of Malawi, and why so many people move there from neighboring African countries24:23 – Day-to-day life in Malawi 27:05 – Having a housekeeper, and the risks of creating an upside-down economy 30:05 – Good intentions gone awry32:58 – Tyler’s climbing leading up to Malawi, and building a wall in his backyard 37:21 – The socioeconomic divide in Malawi, and how Climb Malawi was born42:26 – Other artificial climbing in Malawi44:50 – Outgrowing the backyard climbing wall45:35 – Local climbing in Malawi47:24 – The Climb Malawi climbing wall and location description52:44 – Ernest54:29 – Outdoor trips and introducing Malawians to rock climbing55:31 – Memphis Rox as an inspiration, and the Climb Malawi business model1:00:03 – The impact of covid on Climb Malawi, and Malawi itself1:03:17 – Tyler’s continued involvement with Climb Malawi1:05:38 – How living in Malawi has shaped Tyler’s perspective of what the global climbing community looks like1:09:05 – Ugly entitlement, the game of climbing, and introducing people to climbing with humility1:14:11 – The Chichewa language, and some route names and phrases1:18:47 – Bodie and Moses (Tyler’s adopted boys)1:22:42 – Tyler’s thoughts on moving to Denver with two black sons, and how to provide them with mentorship1:31:33 – “Try to use your privilege with honor.”1:33:16 – The Climbing Initiative1:49:48 – How listeners can support Climb Malawi and TCI 1:51:45 – Tyler’s current climbing, and working on his mental performance and making sport climbing more life-giving1:58:43 – Who’s doing the more impressive thing, climbing at your emotional limit, grades, and having a relationship with each route2:03:01 – A better world through climbing2:07:35 – Gratitude for family and his wife

15 Nov 20212h 11min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel. We talked about when to stick with a training program vs. when to pivot, lessons from studying the NBA, how much LeBron James deadlifts, Steve’s climbing background, and how he climbed his first 5.14 at age 47, and his advice for me to improve power endurance.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:38:35.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingVirtual Performance Climbing Coach Summit:the-climb-strong-pcc-classroom.teachable.com/p/virtual-pcc-summit2021-2022Steve's other episodes:EP 35: Steve BechtelFollow-Up: Steve Bechtel (our first one from January 2021)

11 Nov 202121min

Nathaniel Coleman is the men’s silver medalist of the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about his preparation for the games, training in a climbing sauna, the Olympic experience and winning silver, favorite root beer, Kendama as focus training, chess, why Nathaniel still practices the basics of climbing, doing the FA of ‘The Grand Illusion’ V16, and sport climbing plans.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan FastBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathaniel-colemanNuggets:4:30 – Garbage trucks, and a Tuesday morning in the life of Nathaniel Coleman6:04 – What the two months following the Olympics have looked like for Nathaniel8:20 – Finding out that climbing would be in the Olympics and having qualifying as a goal10:44 – How Nathaniel’s goals evolved throughout the process11:45 – Nathaniel’s mantra for combined nationals 2019, and the journey to qualifying15:25 – How Nathaniel used his mantra, and self-belief vs. letting go of expectations17:25 – Confidence, upbringing, and competing for himself20:27 – The dice roll of competition22:10 – Climbing with Kyle O’Meara, Nathaniel’s relaxed approach to training as a teenager, comparing himself to Sean Bailey, and thriving on a plan with “adequate rest”25:50 – Balancing listening to motivation and pushing through it26:46 – Typical training volumes for World Cup climbers30:39 – How Nathaniel’s training to qualify for the Olympics vs. how he trained for Tokyo34:25 – Balancing World Cups with prep for Tokyo36:01 – Building a climbing “sauna” at the USA training center36:15 – Getting used to climbing in the heat and humidity40:41 – How Tokyo compared to the training sauna43:19 – What it was like to get on the plane and fly to Tokyo46:28 – The qualifying round in Tokyo, and realizing he made finals52:16 – Recalibrating goals after making finals53:48 – Finals1:03:18 – Watching Jacob top the lead route1:05:55 – Patron Question from Tyler: When it was all said and done, what did you think about the Olympic format?1:08:19 – More context about the Olympic format, and  Nathaniel’s thoughts on continuing to speed climb after Tokyo1:10:35 – Great Aunt Armida1:13:04 – Nathaniel’s Instagram posts after winning silver in Tokyo1:14:54 – What Nathaniel’s accomplishment meant for US climbing 1:17:59 – The first and second perspective-changing events in Nathaniel’s climbing career1:19:55 – Thoughts about hard outdoor rock climbing vs. competitions moving forward1:21:54 – How Nathaniel balances training for outdoor routes vs. competitions, and preparing for a trip to the Red1:24:25 – Context about ‘The Grand Illusion’1:25:02 – Patron Question from Nick: Do you have any plans to come back to work on the ‘Lee Majors’ extension?1:27:34 –  Patron Question from Timothy: Does Nathaniel ever see himself getting into highball bouldering or trad/big wall climbing?1:28:54 – Thoughts on retiring from competitions (when and why)1:30:40 – Rootbeer1:32:58 – Kendama1:35:55 – How Nathaniel still practicing the basics in climbing1:38:56 – Bonz Atron (the Chris Sharma of Kendama)1:40:18 – Chess1:41:28 – What Nathaniel does to relax and recharge1:42:52 – Special thanks to Josh, Zach, and Meg1:44:44 – Excited for the Red1:45:58 – Gratitude

8 Nov 20211h 48min

This is part 2 of my conversation with Tom Herbert. Tom shared some clarifications about part 1, we talked about the nervous system and the mind-body connection, how to relax before a session to improve your performance and power, how to turn off in the evenings to optimize recovery, and Tom shared about his childhood and ongoing struggle with anxiety from a chronic bladder issue.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan FastBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-herbert-part-2Nuggets:4:35 – Tom’s anxiety about this conversation, my bleached hair, and red bush tea7:30 – Clarifications from Part 1, more carb considerations, and keeping a training journal18:12 – What Tom is currently working on with Aiden Roberts, and reducing fiber to drop water weight24:45 – Alpha GBC supplementation for vegetarians and vegans, Tom’s experiment with climbing 30 days in a row, and lessons about hydration29:44 – The mind-body connection33:21 – Anxiety, butterflies in your stomach, falling in love, and the physical pain of heartbreak36:27 – Examples of working with clients with fear of specific foods, the mathematics of fat gain, and intellectual vs. emotional conversations39:49 – Phobias, catastrophizing, pain research, and looking upstream44:21 – Referring clients out to therapy48:31 – The hamstring test, and the connection between breathing and relaxation51:35 – “Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee”, belly breathing, and the significance of climbing in a defensive (tight) state55:18 – Reset send, and how to relax before your climbing session to increase your passat reserve59:32 – “You have control over your mental state through your body”, the bidirectional influence of the nervous system, and heart rate variability1:03:05 – How the parasympathetic state opens up opportunity, and the effect of imitating different postures (the Shawshank pose)1:08:48 – Belly breathing for more passat1:11:23 – Bracing vs creating tension1:15:09 – Practicing turning tension on and off1:17:31 – Strong First and creating inter abdominal pressure1:18:43 – Sending the appropriate signal for your session, and how to prepare for powerful climbing1:24:41 – Replenishing the creatine phosphate system1:26:40 – How to turn off at the end of the day, and improve recovery1:31:07 – Tricks for sleep, sleeping posture, and self-massage (knuckling)1:35:15 – Tom’s foam roller ab stretch1:37:37 – Where your mind should be during the evening breathing practice, and rewiring your brain patterns1:40:35 – EMDR and brain spotting, and moving your eyes during your climbing session1:49:39 – Opening our field of vision, and why we feel relaxed in nature or at the ocean1:51:26 – How to increase power by marching in place, and climbing open1:53:09 – My plans to try EMDR on Eternia 1:55:05 – Tom’s childhood2:00:21 – Moving to the UK to become a techno DJ, and  getting into debt2:02:31 – Living off of milk and protein powder, getting kidney stones, and urinary urgency2:04:52 – Trapped in a small world2:08:20 – Empathy and patience for others2:10:50 – Life is chaos, losing his sister, and turning 402:15:35 – Causing ripples and creating freedom for other people2:19:10 – Doing things just because they are fun2:21:07 – Going back to pole dance2:22:54 – Good days and bad days, and moving in a better direction2:24:45 – Hoping to start working with people in person again, and 2022 plans for usefulcoach

1 Nov 20212h 32min