#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium
In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August. I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics ...
2 Okt 202338min
#91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project!
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year. T...
11 Sep 202358min
#90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best!
For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending. With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialing in your training now to climb your best in Octo...
22 Aug 202324min
#89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip
For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing areas is a wonderful skill- and experience-building en...
10 Jul 202332min
#88: The Physical Differences Between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (and the Training Implications for Pursuiting Peak Performance in Each)
The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! Obviously, ...
6 Jun 202329min
#87: The Making of a "Surprise" Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question "Why do we climb?)
Imagine going from having no project climb...to sending perhaps your hardest-ever route in just a few short weeks. That's the unusual story I will share with you in this episode. The route is Kaleidos...
9 Mai 202333min
#86: The Road to 5.13a - A Personalized Training Strategy with Ryan Devlin
What's it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my prescription for one 5.12 climber looking to project -- and send -- his first 5.13a before year's end. In an interesting and e...
10 Apr 20231h 18min
#85: Will Running Help Your Climbing?
It's a question I get asked all the time: "Will doing some running (or other cardio) help my climbing performance?" Giving a proper answer demands some nuance based on the individual's phenotype as we...
6 Mar 202321min
